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    • Just purchased an x100 and EF-20 pre owned and cannot seem to get the flash working. The flash turns on and tests just fine, but when the flash is turned on while attached to the camera, the flashgun icon (on the main display screen) disappears and the "external flash" option greys out. I tried a bunch of tips listed below that I found on the internet with no avail. Please help!

      The sound is OFF

      The "external flash" option has been tested in ON and OFF setting

      Drive is set to single image

      Flash was attached while camera was turned off, and camera was turned on before flash

      Note: The previous owner says it worked for him when he owned it.

    • The Cave Creek trail starts at the Panchuela Campground in the Santa Fe National Forest at an elevation of 8350 feet. It crosses a bridge over Panchuela Creek, which had lots of swift-running water due to late season monsoon rains, and climbs uphill until entering the Pecos Wilderness.
      It goes through wonderful forests of large blue spruce, Douglas and white fir, and aspens, with some expansive views of densely forested mountain slopes. There are a number of areas of moss and lichen-covered rocks and other vegetation.
      The trail crosses Panchuela Creek after about two miles, on fallen logs, and continues along Cave Creek., which is named after limestone caves, located about a mile after the crossing. It is a magical spot, with tall trees, jays and other birds, and one branch of the creek goes into the caves and runs underground for about 1/3 mile.
      The weather was quite chilly when we set out, requiring thermal tops and long pants, but the effort expended kept us warm. By the time we reached the caves, we broke out tee shirts.
      It was a magnificent experience to be amidst the tall trees, and we had the entire forest to ourselves until the return part of the hike, and then we only saw two other people. The nature energies were amazing all the way, but especially at the caves and along the creeks.
    • On ‎16‎/‎10‎/‎2017 at 9:00 PM, Rob Follett said:

      Now.. The CORRECT response is:  Check the button setting for AE/AF Lock Mode in Set Up...  If it's on "S" then Auto ISO goes to the highest setting, and stays there.  If you Change the Button to "P", the Auto ISO setting will adjust properly -- The viewfinder, will however, display the ISO # you have Auto 1, 2, and 3 set on before you push the Shutter button down 1/2 way to set the exposure.

      If you want to use AE Lock set to "S",  then Don't use Auto ISO....


      I don't understand your answer.

      I thought the AE/AF lock mode settings determined if you lock the AE or AF or both when the button was pressed and held, or when the button was pressed once to lock and then pressed again to unlock?

      What is it when it's set to "S" and why would this make a very high ISO to be used? (Unless locking a very dark exposure which requires very high ISO)

    • W

      13 hours ago, LynnwoodRick said:

      Read Rico's article. Still not clear on this.

        Here is a vlog from Bert Stephani. Interesting.

      Wow, old topic!

      Dynamic Range under-exposes the image to preserve highlights, and then performs "tone mapping" to brighten shadow areas.  Tone mapping looks at small groups of pixels or areas of an image and increases localised brightness and adjusts contrast as required.  It's why high DR settings can create "flat" looking images that seem to lack global contrast, and also shouldn't really be used on people pictures are it tends to make their faces look very smooth and plastic because it removes all the shadow/tonal detail in the structure of their face.

      Just FYI - although the camera may report a higher ISO when using DR settings, it isn't "using a higher ISO to increase dynamic range" because actually, using a high ISO by itself will DECREASE dynamic range.  It is exposing at a lower ISO, and then applying the luminance adjustments described above to recover mid tone and shadow details - so it is similar in effect to using a higher ISO, but shouldn't really be confused.

      Shadow and Highlight settings merely adjust the top and bottom end of the "curves".  Curves is a fancy way of saying contrast, and applies particularly to film makers, but is used to adjust whether the light and dark tones fade slowly or quickly to white and black.

      The 2 things are different but can be used in combination.

      The film simulations may themselves have different curves / contrast profiles too, so it's worth starting with the film simulation you like, then adusting the highlights and shadows to taste.  DR should only really be used when you have a scene with very high contrast where it's not possible to maintain highlight and shadow detail within a normal exposure.

      I'm not sure how a video to explain film simulations takes 15 minutes?

    • Read Rico's article. Still not clear on this.

        Here is a vlog from Bert Stephani. Interesting.