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  1. Today
  2. I haven't made any tests but I've found the 50-140 on an XT-1 the sharpest lens in my suite of X series lenses. I've always been immensely pleased with the results from it. Chris
  3. John, thank you for sharing this portrait. Even if it is not sharp and part of the head is out of the frame, surely you were able to capture this gentleman in a soulful and intensely human moment.
  4. Note: Indeed, manual focus has an impact on results a f/2.8. And yes this new 50-140 mm is very good. Something was wrong for sure with the first one I bought. More on this tomorrow. Claude from Montreal
  5. Hello everyone, Thanks to all for your reply. I'm in the process of redoing all the tests. New targets printed at 600 dpi on an Epson R2880. So I rented for free trial 3 lenses: 18-135 mm, 55-200 mm and another 50-140mm. Before replacing the targets, I did the test first with the third 50-140mm lens at autofocus and manual settings (to compare with previous results on the same basis). This 3rd lens is far better than the other two and it is likely that this is the one i rented this spring. The settings did not affect the results. I did not finalize all the tests but the 55-200 mm lens seems to be very sharp and the 18-135 seems blurred in the corners (always at 100 mm). Now I'm considering the 55-200 mm instead of the 50-140mm. It is less soft in the corner than the 50-140mm but needs more light. The sensor of the XT-2 is very sensitive with a wide dynamic range I wonder if in low light, the autofocus would be good at f / 5.6 with a 55-200. During the last shots in a jazz club I used 1 / 250e has ISO 3200 at 100 mm focal length f / 2.8. This would correspond to about 1 / 125th a ISO 6400 at 100 mm focal length at f / 5.6. I know that at ISO 6400 the results are very good. What do you think ? (Maybe I should make a new post for the 55-200). Thanks again, Claude from Montreal (Canada)
  6. How much do you want for the X-Pro2 and whereabouts in the UK are you? Thanks in advance
  7. Yesterday
  8. There is also this E-book by Damien Lovegrove which deals with the Fuji system as a whole inc advice on which camera/lens for which purpose which makes it worthwhile for potential owners of Fuji equipment wanting exactly this sort of advice. £20
  9. DSCF2014-Edit.jpg

    This is Alan Hargreaves
  10. In my opinion, the absolute best book on Fuji X-series cameras is the one by Kevin Mullins-- Fujifilm X100S, From Snapshots to Great Shots, 2014. it's a beautiful book, in color on excellent paper and sized just right: about 7 by 10 inches, soft paperback. In it, the author makes it easy to understand all the basic functions, then goes beyond with tips on how to expand the camera's capabilities and in the process make you a better photographer. Had mine about 4 years now, and still refer to it at least weekly. It is dog-eared! I recently added a slightly used X-E2 with XF60mm f 2.4 lens to complement my 100S, and am searching for an equivalent book to Kevin Mullin's X100S book. Bought the Rico Pfirstinger book, and while it's decent, it is nowhere near the quality and depth, and simple beauty, of Mullin's 100S book. Any ideas out there?
  11. Hi everybody! I had exactly the same problem like daniel-k has with my Fuji X-T1. Same issues with lens, focus, e.t.c. Usually I do landscape photos on wide angle and timelapses. 20-30% shots are blurry :-(... Only one thing hepls - use prime lens with open aperture. When I zooming my 16-55 2.8 - it doesn't happens. With 16mm or 14mm doesn't happens as well... It is pity that problem was not solved in new model XT-2....
  12. Obviously you must return if they are less than satisfactory. Did you check by manual focus? This would rule out any incorrect settings for AF.
  13. Check that you have the latest software updates for your lens working in the camera. You might also have the camera set to manual focus and be pressing the shutter lightly to get it to focus. You have to use the dedicated button which looks like it is the top right button marked AF-L for the T2. (I don't use the T2, but I do use the 50-140 f2.8 lens.) Another thing to consider is what phototomy it is set to. This is controlled in part under the shutter speed dial. You might have it set to a general scene and not spot for example.
  14. recently other members reported issues with a lens (16-55 f2.8 in one case) or apparently with their camera not focusing accurately (there seems to be more than 1 report of this here). Fujis ISO values are generally inflated by about 1ev at higher iso values, so be aware this can affect your shutter speed.
  15. I bought a Fuji 50-140mm lens (and an XT-2 camera) after doing a conclusive test on xpro2. At the reception of the objective I did some tests (using a tripod) with an XT-2 and targets affixed to a wall, since I found the lens a bit disappointing. I compared the results with a Nikkor 18-140 mounted on a Fotodiox adapter. To my surprise the lens had less sharpness than a Nikkor zoom 18-140 (after correction of aberrations in lightroom). At full aperture, the18-140 zoom sharpness was much better than the Fuji 50-140 mm at f/2.8 (the results at f/4 and f/5.6 did not produce any significant changes). I returned the Fuji lens for refund and I rented a second Fuji 50-140 mm lens. New tests showed that the first lens presented problems. However, I was again surprised that the second lens was comparable to the Nikkor 18-140 mm and exhibited a slight form of fuzziness (shadow around characters or bar on the target – similar to astigmatism at corners). The trials I had done before buying an XT-2 and zoom 50-140 mm had amazed me. So I'm very disappointed with the quality control of the lenses and I'm thinking of returning the XT-2. The main reason for buying this was the camera / lens combination and to have a sharp lens. The combination of the XT-2 and the 50-140 mm seemed to be a winner because the XT-2's sensor has little noise in high ISO. Non-mechanical operation is also silent and very useful in certain situations. And as a bonus it’s not too heavy to carry around. I would appreciate your advice before definitively abandoning the Fuji line (unfortunately). Am I just unlucky with two lenses with this price tag or am I doing something wrong? Note: I have done all the tests several times with and without stabilizer, with and without mechanical shutter with the same results. All tests were performed at a focal length of 100 mm only (limited time to return the lens). Test were made with target in center and each four corners. The comparison was also made with a Nikkor E 100mm lens (mounted on Fotodiox), which has surpassed the other lenses in terms of sharpness (except it was slightly less sharp at center at f/2.8). On a field test, the 50-140 Fuji lens has less chromatic (maybe none) and no barrel distortion or other type of distortion or problems found in the other lenses tested. Focus was a bit inconsistent with the first version of 40-150 Fuji lens. Unfortunately, a lack of sharpness can’t be corrected by software. The tests were not scientific but carried out with what I think is sufficient accuracy for comparison (not in a lab of course!).
  16. Last week
  17. Will you only post to UK? I am located in MALTA (Europe) and am currently looking for a 35 mm f 1.4. Thanks.
  18. Sorry for the delay in replying but I spend a lot of my time on the Fujilove page on Facebook.. I like to shoot street photography and people anywhere but preferably unrehearsed as I like to capture the "rawness" of life. Its a pity that photographing children is an issue today as they are the most spontaneous of all. I am also into colours / shapes / patterns and anything that is about history and Nature, as in sky and sea and living things - preferably colourful ones that are also slow moving (so anything that likes to bask in the sun essentially)! Most recently I shot scale models (aircraft and tanks) at an exhibition. I wanted to exclude the background by using wide apertures but that ended up badly as I overlooked depth of field completely.. and made the #1 sin of not checking there and then to see what I was getting. Oh well..
  20. One of our (numerous) pets

    RAW to TIFF (in Iridient Developer), PP in DXO Optics Pro 11 (Fuji Neopan Acros 100 film simulation, with added grain at Intensity 100 and grain size at 3).
  22. I think that's what Kiwi alludes to in his first response. It's a known work around as is downloading Fuji's DNG converter. Also keep an eye on Iridient X Transformer (Windows) for XT20 updates to their software.
  23. Just bought an XF 27mm. Works fine except in manual focus mode. The focus ring is pretty tight compared to other Fujinon lenses (XF and XC). Would be difficult to focus manually given the small size of the focusing ring and its tightness.
  24. Thanks people! I've also heard that using a Exif editor to trick Lightroom it's a RAW file from the X-T2 might work. Anyone tried this?
  25. Thank you very much, I'll be glad for any new information and experiences.
  26. All that will be required is for Adobe to issue an update which they do every month or so telling their software that a X-T20 is the same as a X-T2 from a processing point of view. Don't blame Adobe for not having a crystal ball and being able to magically know in advance the exact parameters of every new camera before its released. Yes Fuji supply software and you can go that route if you want but the OP wanted to know how to use the X-T20 with Lightroom.
  27. Don't Fuji have software that will convert for you? I too get the XT-20 soon and wasn't aware Adobe wasn't able to read them considering that it's the same sensor as the XT-2 and Pro-2.
  28. Slimming down my equipment so have the following for sale:- X-Pro2 X-Pro1 18mm f2 23mm f1.4 35mm f1.4 60mm f2.8 Macro X-Pro 1 & 23mm minimal signs of use. Everything else as new. All items c/w box, accessories etc Message me for more info or pics if interested. Based in the UK
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