Neat tricks to make your X100 experience better...
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As a new owner of a X100, i am always on the search for cool little tricks to make my experience better and more fun. Share your small trickbags with me;-).
Trick #1 - Focusing.
Reading the net, it seems i am not the only one out there that is not all that happy with the focusing system. I read this neat trick in here somewhere and thought i'd share it with y'all.
1. Set your X100 to manual focus.
2. Point it to where/what you want in focus.
3. Press the AFL/AEL button. The camera will do a autofocus.
4. Shoot your picture.
That's 'bout it!
The really great advantage about this is that, when you do street-photography, you will often find the autofocus too slow. With this manual method, you can set your focus-zone once and shoot manually from there. Much much faster.
This little trick has made my X100 experience better... -
Somewhere here or on the X100Forums.com there is a compilation of these.
Another trick which street shooters or 'decisive' moment or photographers of children would want to employ is the half-shutter press - this moves the aperture blades to the selected setting (assuming you are using aperture priority or fully manual operation) and/or sets the exposure. Doing this reduces any lag involved in moving the blades to essentially zero.
The MF/AFL focus trick also allows you to get in close - macro close - without stopping to go into Macro mode. You can focus to within about 10cm using MF/AFL (although you really need to be using the EVF when this close). -
Instant zoom to your focus point.
When you shoot in AF-s or AF-c and reviewing your shot. After you have pressed the green playback button, press the lever-button. It's the button on the top-right on the back of your camera. This will give you a 100% zoom at your focus point. Pretty neat when checking for sharpness.
You can also do this when in MF, but it will send you to the center of the image nomatter where your focuspoint is placed. -
alagami said:
Instant zoom to your focus point.
When you shoot in AF-s or AF-c and reviewing your shot. After you have pressed the green playback button, press the lever-button. It's the button on the top-right on the back of your camera. This will give you a 100% zoom at your focus point. Pretty neat when checking for sharpness.
You can also do this when in MF, but it will send you to the center of the image nomatter where your focuspoint is placed.
Awesome! I have been zooming in with the AE button on the left. Now with this new trick, it'll be so much faster. Thanks!
Keep them coming..... -
Another thing i boxed a lot with in the beginning was the zooming in and out. Proberbly from not reading the manual too well.
If you are zoomed in and you need to zoom fully out, just press the ok/menu button and you're there. -
Check your focuspoint.
This trick is great for learning how the camera actually decides what/where to focus on. It works when shooting in AF-C and AF-S.
When reviewing your shots and you are fully zoomed out, dial the comand-lever once to the left. You will see a green cross where the camera chose to focus.
It's a great learner;-) -
i tend to use protection filter a night , but removing it like a screw in transparant lens cap for a few shots will give better contrast and less flare in many casesi shoot with the ricoh gxr and m mount module with adapted glass
i shoot with the samsung ex1 and the ricoh gx 200
i shoot with the ep1 and gf1 with adapted slr and rf glass
i shoot with the x100 and the x10 -
Thanks for the tips re: checking the focus after the photo has been taken by using the review button and then pushing the lever button on the top RH. But of most use has been the ability to check the focus before the photo is taken, esp of macro or close shots by setting it to MF and then pushing the lever button in that shows how sharp the image is in the green square. It has opened a whole new way to get it pin point focused. I think I better get the tripod out and use it more often now in low light or close ups.
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If you shoot in RAW
Set DR=100
When DR = 200 or 400, the exposure is automatically reduced by 1 and 2 stops respectively to reduce the chance that the highlights will be clipped. For RAW images the results for DR =200 or 400 can be obtained by simply increasing the exposure paramater in the RAW processing software. For in-camera jpegs, the RAW image's exposure is automatically increased when the jpeg is rendered, so jpeg images appear to have the exposure the photographer intended. The maximum dynamic range for each image is present in its RAW file, so there is no reason to set DR above 100 if you don't use in-camera jpegs.Set maximum ISO to be 1600
The native ISO range of the X100's sensor is 200 through 1600. Other values simply increase the exposure by multiplying the in-camera RAW image by the appropriate factor in firmware. Increasing ISO above 1600 does not increase the electronic gain of the sensor system. This means a RAW file exposed at 3200 has the exactly the same information content as a RAW file exposed at 1600. What changes is: when the ISO is set to 3200, the X100 doubles the exposure parameter in firmware before the RAW file is saved. This is no different than increasing the exposure slider by one stop your RAW rendering/processing software with the ISO set to 3200. In both cases (RAW ISO set to 1600 and RAW ISO set to 3200), the image is under exposed exactly the same way. -
While using Manual focus yesterday, I found that when you press the command wheel (press in, not L or R)it focuses to 100% crop and lets you see your focus BEFORE you take the photo. This has dramatically increased my keeper rate and works great in both the EVF and LCD.
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@wchutt - wow! Where do you learn that stuff?
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@wchutt
Both those points regarding the camera's functions are correct, but I don't really see what use those suggestions are. If you set max ISO to 1600, you will be limited to low shutter speeds. Or you will have to underexpose to get a high enough shutter speed, but then you might as well have had a higher ISO. There is no ill effect from using ISOs above 1600 apart from the usual. And the DR options are there if you want to make sure you don't lose highlight information. That way you won't have to set exposure compensation manually. It's good to know how the camera operates, but I don't see what the user gains my making the adjustments you suggest. -
Just found this out (had the camera since June) with the following settings:
Auto ISO = OFF (has to be)
Manual focus mode
Aperture = A
Shutter = A
I can rotate the wheel (the one around the Menu OK button) to adjust the aperture without turning the aperture ring around the lens!!! The shutter speed and F stop # in the LCD would turn "yellow" when you adjust the F stop with the wheel! It would turn from yellow to white once F stop is set to recommended value!
I don't need to keep turning the aperture ring around the lens anymore unless I want a fixed F stop # with 1/3 adjustment by using the rocker wheel above the "AFL/AEL" button!!
Hope I didn't confuse anyone. :)
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@brkl. Understand completely why he suggests both of those. This really goes back to how much control you wish to have over the camera. For those of us who are control freaks, knowing what the camera is doing (or doing via software) is really helpful to massage the camera to get the results you want. I get your point, but this info is great info as I trust my own post production more than I trust the x100. And so, I need to set my camera to that. What he's saying is that the camera is simply underexposing the image and then bumping it internally in post production. Why let the camera do that when PS or LR or whatever you choose can do that better?
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Is there a way to be able to review the shot just taken on the screen without having to press the "play" button? I am only able to do that if view mode is set in such a way that nothing is displayed in the finder - then after the shot, the instant review is displayed on the LCD; but with nothing in the finder you don't know where the camera focuses, you don't see exposure info, etc.
What I want is to see framelines and the other stuff that's available in the hybrid OVF then after I take the shot to be able to see the instant review on the LCD, not on the EVF. So far this doesn't seem possible but maybe I am missing something... -
A little tip that I'm sure people have noticed but I've not seen anything really said about it.
I noticed that if you install a filter in front of the lens that it muffles the already almost silent shutter to practically nothing. I never realized it before until earlier this morning when I was doing a little test.
Filter Usage = SUPER STEALTH NINJA CAMERA -
Sometimes the shutter lag can reach 10 seconds. The remedy is to save your photos and format the card.
It will then revert to less than a second.
I found the probability of lag increases if you remove the card. I found it best to copy the images to the PC with the USB cable and never remove the card.
Also you can speed up the camera a little by buying a faster SD card.
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When you import photos with the USB cables, it's best to run MyFinepix Studio first and then plug in the USB cable and turn on the camera.
If you plug the camera in first and then run MyFinepix Studio, it will run the studio but not import the photos.
I use a Canon SLR and settled on ZoomBrowser and don't use the Finepix Studio except to just import the photos. -
Out last night in a dark pub, I was having trouble focusing (the camera). It wouldn't autofocus or one-off auto/manual focus at all. By trial and error I switched to manual focus and turned on the autofocus assist lamp. A quick press of the AFL/AEL button blipped the assist lamp just long enough to focus and I could take my shot.
The lamp did distract people but only for a second. Trying it with full autofocus meant it was on for quite a few seconds and was much more distracting. I'll stick with manual focus and the lamp in dark places in future. -
danm said:
Is there a way to be able to review the shot just taken on the screen without having to press the "play" button? I am only able to do that if view mode is set in such a way that nothing is displayed in the finder - then after the shot, the instant review is displayed on the LCD; but with nothing in the finder you don't know where the camera focuses, you don't see exposure info, etc.
What I want is to see framelines and the other stuff that's available in the hybrid OVF then after I take the shot to be able to see the instant review on the LCD, not on the EVF. So far this doesn't seem possible but maybe I am missing something...
The only way I could get what you are looking for is to set "Display Picture" to "Continue". Once I took a picture in the OVF, the picture would be displayed on the LCD when I move my eye away from the OVF (Eye Sensor enabled). The LCD would then engage displaying the picture. With "Display Picture" set to either 1.5 sec/3 sec, the LCD does not show the picture as by the time I move my eye away from the OVF, seconds has elapsed already. I don't like the "Continue" setting as I had to press the "OK" button to return to shooting mode. I prefer pushing the "Play" button to zoom in if I had to check focus on the LCD after taking a picture. I found the 1.5sec display in EVF is sufficient enough to determine if a shot is good/not. :)
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@jackk - thanks, I didn't know that. This is just one of the X100 idiosyncrasies. I don't think it matters very much, I still love the camera and I think I will end up with X100 being the only camera I own (currently own about 6...)
Here's what I learned playing with this feature:
with picture display set at 3 or 1.5 seconds, it will never show the picture on the LCD, except when viewing mode is set to not show anything in the viewfinder.
Continuous picture display will show the picture on the LCD in "eye sensor" mode only.
When in "continuous", getting back to shooting mode seems to require a press of the OK button, but after about 2 seconds, when the LCD displays "OK: next", you can get back to shooting mode with one press of the shutter button too, so this is not that bad. What can be bad, depending on how you shoot, is that before "OK:Next" is displayed, you cannot get back to shooting mode no matter what you do, not even with the OK button. In other words, if you set image display to continuous, the camera is not available for shooting for at least 2 seconds after you take the shot.
Also when you are in this "continuous review" mode, you cannot do anything to the image, you can't delete it or edit it.
Now why is it behaving like that, who knows... but I think it shouldn't. Just one more small nice-to-have thing to add to the already too long to-do list for the firmware developers... -
@danm - interesting, didn't realize pushing the shutter button could exit from "continues picture display." Guess the more we play with this camera, the more interesting things we'll find about it!! :)
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there were all some great tips. Thanks to everyone who posted they were very helpful.
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@alagami
Thanks so much. What a great find. Felt bad about having to say I shoot in AF on the x100 but now we can say we shoot in manual. hahaha. Wow, not having to worry about Macro mode and pressing shutter half-way to keep the focus is amazing.
I love this camera! -
wow what a great tips !!! thanksCheck out my Flickerrrr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/areax100/
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If you hold down either of the customizable function buttons (fn or RAW), you can change its functions on the fly. Initially, 2 buttons seemed like too few but after finding this out, I don't really care anymore since I can take a second to switch a button the the ISO and pick the right setting, then switch back to Film settings or what not and go on shooting.
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@plekstor- I was just reading the tips here, and noticed the same exact thing. There's no remedy for this- the camera cannot sense if you re-compose after focusing. I use center point AF and recompose, so this little trick is less useful. If you are still getting used to the multi-AF (or whatever it's called), then this trick is very useful.
There are a lot of great tips in this thread! I didn't know about re-assigning the function buttons, nice! -
I also noticed that if you set the AE/FL button to be "On/Off" rather than "On when pressed", you can bypass that focus locking issue someone else pointed out.
So if I set it to f/l6 and focused on something, it'll still show the dof bar and you can lock it at that focus with the button set up as above.
Too bad you can't set it to do the same in MF mode or focus manually in AF mode so you can set the dof bar where you want and then lock it. Could probably be fixed with a firmware issue though but its not likely to happen =[
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