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Showing most liked content since 03/30/2017 in all areas

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    Hello Mark :-) I shoot entirely in RAW format and Black and White conversion is carried out in L/R or P/S or should I say CC? Good luck with your choice of Fuji cameras; the Fuji lenses are of stunning quality in terms of image quality and detail capture. Regards, Peter. In the UK we dare not take pictures of children as rightly or wrongly we seem to be in many ways a paranoid society however in most countries abroad there is no such paranoia; some people are proud for you to photograph their children, these two taken on Majuli island within the massive Brahmaputra river, Assam, NE India.
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    I'm with Christopher. I have both the WCL and TCL and the TCL rarely gets used and that from what i can see is most peoples outcome. The WCL is nice and compact and quite light but the TCL is considerably larger, heavier and to some degree unbalances the camera. If you do a lot of head and shoulders type portraits the TCL would work but in general use with the X100 cameras the WCL seems more attractive to most I certainly use mine a lot for landscape type shots.. WCL TCL
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    I don't have any of the X100 series but I believe the idea of the built-in ND filter is to enable you to shoot wide open - with or without flash for fill by virtue of the leaf shutter. If you're shooting auto/semi auto exposure or auto ISO then the exposure will appear the same in the evf and in the resulting image but the actual shutter speed, aperture, auto ISO will be different and so will the depth of field. Obviously. if used at smaller apertures, you can lengthen the shutter speed for smooth water effects and this may be visible on the screen. Check the menus (screen sub menu) for "Preview exposure/WB in manual mode". If you have this on the X100F enable it, then switch to manual exposure. Now you should see the differences in the EVF/rear screen as you change any of the parameters including the ND filter. Vic
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    IIRC they have/ used to have a UK Warehouse to handle some imports. Almost 10 years ago I visited their old store in Star House , Hong Kong so they've been around a while now. I trust them
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    I have used Digitalrev on numerous occasions and always had excellent service from them. On their website, they state in terms and conditions that all duty is paid by the seller (Digitalrev) and the price you pay on checkout has everything included. They have very speedy postage which is traceable, and will even post to a work address. On one occasion, the courier notified me that they had my parcel but required import duty to be paid prior to delivery. When I called them, I simply explained that the company (Digitalrev) paid the import duty prior to posting, they delivered to me the following day. They even apologised for the mistake. I would not hesitate to use them again in the future, in fact I am doing within the next couple of days.
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    I've bought cameras, lenses and speedlights from Digital Rev and the only problem I had was with the delivery company at this end who delivered my camera to a wrong address 3 streets away - as it happened there was no-one to sign at that address so they took it next door to a neighbour who by sheer luck and coincidence not only happens to be a friend of mine but who also shares my surname - otherwise I would not have got my camera. If your package (very rare) gets stopped by customs and has extra tax applied Digi rev will pay it. You won't have a makers warranty but Digirev retain a number of repairers in various countries to do any work necessary or if the unit is not repairable they will replace it. Because they have a good reputation and supply a good service they have to charge a little more than some less trustworthy HK companies. It will take a couple of weeks at least to arrive.
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    Digital Rev are a very good, very ethical, very reliable supplier. They have been around for years. The only issue I have with them is that they tend to be rather expensive compared to other HK based suppliers. You could always hop on the cheapest flight you can to Melbourne and pick up a X100F ex stock from a store for 939 pounds (todays exchange rate) after you get the GST back when you leave the country an hour later.
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    Hi all. I'M new to this forum and writing from Italy. I have an X-T1 and X-T20 but The more I look at it the more I'M intrigued by the X-Pros (xpro2 is out of my budget and not necessary for me). I really would like to get an xpro but wondering if it is worth it. I mean is the IQ and handling the same as the xt1? I'M asking because I read mixed feelings about it. I would use it mainly with primes and for travel. I guess it's just gas but it takes me in a way I cannot explain.
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    I concur with Fred G. Unn, I have found DR to be a major culprit in bumping up the (Auto) ISO (albeit on an XT2).
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    Split image focussing does not work anywhere near as well on a digital EVF as it did on old SLR cameras. Basically the only time it works with any degree of certainty is if you are focussing on a clearly defined vertical such as the edge of a wall or a lamp post. I don't know of anybody who owns a Fuji camera who uses split image focussing after they have tried it once. You will most likely find that for manual focussing focus peaking works much better in the X-T2. On the X-T1 you go to menu page 4, MF Assist and then select from Standard, Digital Split image or Focus peak (with colour choices). I would have assumed that the X-T2 would be set up in a similar way. If you are in some of the bracketing modes you will not be able to select the focus style. Generally when you cannot select something on a Fuji it is because you have something else set that is excluding that menu option.
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    and understand that the camera will ALWAYS push the iso up first to preserve shutter speed. Setting a default high iso to 12800 is somewhat crazy you would be far better to set the default to something like 3200 and the manually push it up if and when you need to. The only time you would want an iso that high by default is if you shoot exclusively in low light.
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    Also, what is your dynamic range set to? Judging by the shadows under the menu and on her face, that doesn't look like 100% to me. If you have it set to Auto or 400% that could be costing you a couple of stops worth of ISO.
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    The EXIF says: Aperture priority, f/2.0, shutter speed 1/120 s, ISO 12800. Is your minimum shutter speed set to 1/120 s? Check the ND filter is not on.
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    Just checked split image focus on my XT2 Ver2 and I cannot get it to work.
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    Whenever there is a lens connection problem you will get that message. Before returning it just check the contacts on the lens are able to depress and return and that none are stuck lower than the others.
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    Hello chaps. have we all forgot to mention, faster A/F, the A/F point joystick, Acros film simulation, better battery life etc etc there is an awful lot of change from X100T Just thought I would throw it out there.
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    I think you will enjoy the simplicity and minimal gear, you may even forgo the telephoto lens adapter and utilize the in-camera 'telephoto' cropping feature, if you're already shooting JPG anyways. Do you carry the X-Pro2 with only the 23mm f/2 very often? This is my go-to focal length, I found myself choosing my X100T over my X-T1 and 23mm lens almost every time. Now that I have an X-T2 though, my X100T is feeling sluggish by comparison in AF performance and overall responsiveness. The X100F is a real temptation.
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    Normally I would agree with what K1W1_Mk2 has said, but I intend getting this camera myself. As such, I've done what I always do, lots of "research". I bet I've watched every video out there about this camera. As yet, there aren't that many out there, but I'd suggest you check out both Big Head Taco, and The Angry Photographer, on the X100F. There are lots of drooling unboxing videoes, plus the Angry Photographer going on a hilarious rant about how good this camera is. There may well be more serious reviews appearing now, as the camera becomes more easily obtainable. I shall buy it it, because I sold my original X100. about 2 years ago, to finance an X-T1. Not a day has gone by that I haven't wished I still had it. It is a unique camera, and that lens is fine with me, it's some kind of magical. Whether you should buy it, is another question, one which both these guys, and several other Youtube reviewers I watched, would answer yes, the addition of basically the X-Pro 2's innards, take it into another ball park. It's now a compact version of the X-Pro 2 with a superbly matched fixed 35mm lens. I'm seriously wondering whether, if I buy the tele, and the wide angle adapters, for the X100F, I will still be bothering with the X-Pro2, as often. Would it make it redundant I wonder. I have every prime lens, up to 90, (and excluding the new XF 50mm f2,) that Fuji makes. With the fixed 35mm equivalent on the X100, plus the option to pull out an adapter, and do some nice portraits with the 75mm equivalent, or take some bigger landscapes, I'd still have everything covered. I'd have virtually everything I have now, every shot I could possibly take now (almost), with my full X-Pro 2 rig covered with the camera round my neck, and the adapters in my pockets. Have to say, that's quite an attractive proposition, as the years roll by, and the beat goes on. PS What are people's thought's about this? I'm 63, and have acute osteo arthritis. I no longer drive so I cannot physically carry my Camera and 8 primes. Obviously, I don't take them all everywhere, but with X100, plus both adapters, I'd have a similar sort of range in one small bag. easily transported. This would be useful in things like visits to new towns etc. Where you bot sure what you'll be shooting.
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    I don't believe there is a thread for the Pentax/Asahi Optics Takumar line of lenses. I have created a page on my website to summarize my experience with the 55mm f1.8 Super-Takumar (~ 1970) while mounted on my XT2. http://adamwoodhousephotography.ca/vintage-gear/pentax-asahi-55mm-f1-8/ I have read online that many of the old Takumar focal lengths are great performers, well built and quite affordable. Thought this forum could use a thread for people to share the Takumar line.
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    To Artuk. Yes I can certainly see that these were NOT taken on a Fuji Camera. You said that they were taken on a Sony A711 camera and that is where the difference lies!. What I merely said that these were superior and it shows. The A711 is a Full Frame, and the Fujis are a cropped sensor( Are'nt they?) Take compliments in the spirit they were given, not a post mortem. Thanks!
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    Welcome. It will be fun seeing how the responses differ on the various different forums you have posted this message to.
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    A shot from a Peter Coulson shoot I did recently
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    I find myself more and more shooting Jpeg. I love the film simulations. Astia is one of my favorites. These Fujifilm Jpegs are so good they require little and often no editing.
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    Fuji UK have refurbished 18s for £339 with a year's warranty. http://shop.fujifilm.co.uk/fujinon-xf18mm-f2-r-refurbished.html i have one I bought last year and it is perfect.
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    Put ISO in the auto position and you press it in once for shut speed or aperture depending on your settings and twice for ISO.
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    Excellent. I've shared it on another forum so hopefully you'll get plenty of hits.
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    It shows how an 'old lens' can work so well on a young camera. Did you use the 60mm on say the X-Pro1 in the past and do you now find the lens works snappier on the XT2?
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    Spring green coats the valleys and hills of this national monument now. Then it's dry and brown the rest of the year. First outing with my new 50-140. Used my XPro2.
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    In this time of year, this area is covered pink by this kind of flower.
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    I don't know about you guys but I am feeling like a very talented guy for being able to use this camera in spite of all these faults.
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    pelican overflying the Pismo Pier...a little soft but I'm okay with that.
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    Great reply. (I'd been scratching my head about how to write something so succinct, and hadn't had an inspiration. Nice. Fuji should steal your copy to add to their manuals.)
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    Different photographers like working in different ways. many people use the "focus and recompose" technique you describe, where the focusing and exposure are set when you press and hold the shutter half way. In some cases, the thing you want to focus on may not represent the exposure you want - or vice versa. Imagine a very brightly lit statue to one side of your photo, with a darker background. You could use the normal focus and recompose technique, but that might not give you an exposure you like - the statue might be too dark, or the background too bright. You could use exposure compensation to adjust this. Alternatively, if your camera is in "spot" meter mode, you could take a meter reading for something that you want to be "mid gray" in the photo (middle of the exposure range), exposure lock it, then recompose your picture, focus on what you want, and fire the shutter. EV lock becomes most useful when combined with spot metering in my opinion. AF lock may also be useful when the thing in focus is not the thing you want the exposure set for - so you lock AF (e.g. on something on one side of the picture in very different light to the rest of the picture), then recompose and half press the shutter to set exposure and take the picture.