• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


About artuk

  • Birthday
  1. I read about the e-mount video lenses today - Fuji have said they will be released in X mount later this year. I think there was general surprise at Fujinon E mount lenses, but since a wide variety of semi pro APS-C and Super 35mm Sony video and stills cameras accept them, and they are a major player in the video market, I guess it's potentially lucrative market.
  2. I installed "Pro" version 8 over the weekend and tested it on a few physique portraits. The overall image quality and output hasn't changed as far as I can tell. The local adjustment "brush" tool is a very helpful addition to the graduated filter and circular filters options. However although you can set the brush feathering, it doesn't seem possible to set the density which is a slight limitation. So to build up different amounts of brushed in adjustments you need to add several overlapping brush areas and adjust each one separately. Not the end of the world and it works ok. The clarity slider within the contrast controls is quite nice. For portraits it needs to be used carefully as it creates that very hard gritty look to skin etc. I haven't tried it with landscapes etc yet. Looks useful as it removes the need to add it after export with a third party editor (and better to add clarity than output sharpen than the other way around). Th black and white tools are similar to other software and you can vary the luminosity of each colour in the conversion. The colour filters are rather powerful and don't give the effect I expected, but you can adjust their density and that may be part of the problem (the default is too dense). The conversions seem nice and give a lot of control, and you can add your own "tastes" to use again. I haven't looked at any other features yet but the changes aren't ground breaking but do make worthwhile improvements. If you have an older license (probably pre version 6) it is probably worth an upgrade. If you have version 6 or 7 you can get a big discount on a version 8 license using your license key, which may be worth an update - depends on you and the cost. Personally I really like the SP output and think the image quality is better than other software I've used - the output sometimes looks more filmic or natural. However, others hate it for its user Interface or say the output isn't good, too saturated, poor noise control. I actually like the NR, sharpness and colour options, but that's a personal choice and why there is a 30,day free trial. if you do try it and want some advice, send a private message or comment in this thread.
  3. In 17 years of photography with SLRs and ILCs I can honestly say I could count the number of times I have used HSS flash on one hand. The HUGE problem with HSS flash is that the power drops off a cliff as you increase the shutter speed, so trying to shoot against full day sun with an GN42 flash gun simply isn't going to work at 1/4000s unless you only want a tiny bit of flash.
  4. I believe the EF42 flashgun I made for Fuji by Nissin. I have a pair of Nissin Di700s for another system and they are infuriating as you can use take 50 or 100 shots, put them.away, and the next day they will refuse to power up with a low battery warning. Is this the have with the EF42 also?
  5. Ichikawa software emailed me today to announce that the English language version of SilkyPix Pro v8 is now available. the changes compared to version 7, which include: - new clarity tool - new black and white colour filter tool - new local adjustments brush - revised user interface - 3 user license I feel the enhancements made in version 7 were more significant (local adjustments, spotting tools, portrait enhancement, new sharpening process) but I will certainly be installing and trying it over the next few days. The clarity tool, ability to brush in local adjustments, and a more straight forward approach to B&W (you could always vary the result by selecting monochrome and then making local colour adjustments anyway, the new tool appears to have presets and make it more straight forward to create different B&W "looks") certainly add value, but the greatest benefit for me is the ability to use the license on 3 installations, making working across PCs, laptops and tablets easier. I will report back in a few days on how I've found the new version. You can download a 30,day free trial from.the ISL website if you want to try it. SilkyPix version3 is the software Fuji provides as "Fuji Raw File Converter" with their cameras, although newer versions have added many features and changed the raw development process which in my opinion gives superior results.
  6. it is well documented that wide angle lenses can cause focusing issues with SLR cameras and I think mirrorless cameras too. I've certainly had the problem. It is often attributed to the very great depth of field with wide angles combined with small apertures, and the tendency of subjects to be very small in the frame at wide angles of view. Is it possible that if the problem.only occurs with wider lenses that the PDAF is being confused by this effect? I'm bowing out of this discussion now as I don't have an XT2 and don't want abuse by trying to help.
  7. if one can buy a decent sized and quality 24-70 f4 for full frame, a 16-60mm f2.8 for crop sensors should be entirely possible. I agree that "optical quality" seems a weak argument against in lens stabilisation, and why Fuji and Sony respectively made 16-55mm / 24-70mm f2.8 lenses without it mystified me, although at least most Sony bodies now have IBIS. Are the Sigma DN lenses available in X mount? Olympus and Panasonic make some great cameras and lenses, but I just couldn't get over the small sensors for some of what I do - and the lenses are often as large and heavy as those for larger formats. M43rds at f2 iso 800 is about as good as APSC at f2.8 iso 1600 which is about as good as full frame at f4 and iso 3200 - but the lens sizes are surprisingly similar! at least the larger formats have other benefits and can better the smaller ones as soon as you use faster lenses.
  8. The 40-150mm isn't stabilised!?! Oh boy, big mistake. I feel the same about some of Sony's lenses too - the 24-70mm GM f2,8 isn't, neither is the new low cost 85mm f1.8, whereas their 24-70mm f4 and 90mm macro and the new 100mm STF are.... go figure! I had a lot of problems with camera shake with the X system having come from a stabilised system, and in the end I also concluded that the inflated ISO values meant I was getting unexpectedly low shutter speeds for any given light - so you just have to double the ISO value you think you need to get a decent (expected) shutter speed. Of course, that undermines some of the mythos around the high ISO performance! ;-) Sony gained a great deal of renewed interest in E mount when they added IBIS to their A7 series, and APS-C users rejoiced when the A6500 finally added it - though we didn't rejoice at the full frame price! It is an invaluable feature if the lenses don't include any form of stabilisation, and adds more value when IBIS and OIS are combined. The Fuji OIS in the 18-55mm is very good, it's such a shame the primes and particularly the tele primes and the f2.8 zooms don't have it. I know optical quality is an argument against it, but there are some excellent lenses out there with OIS that it's hard to see that as a meaningful argument.
  9. Yes its a great shame that the camera and primes are completely unstabilised - only m43rds and Sony offer that. you are confusing iso and exposure. The cameras meter correctly for the actual iso used, but exaggerate the iso values quite a bit. Olympus do this too by about 1ev. If your files are dark that's more likely to be the exposure program not reading the scene ideally - I often found files a little dark by maybe 1/3ev but also often had problems with bad clipping which needed significant -ve compensation. I think Olympus files look good at ISO 6400 because their jpeg engine is good - a m43rds sensor made by Sony uses the same technology as all their other sensors, but has half the surface area of apsc and a quarter of full frame. Unsurprisingly, noise performance drops by at least 1 stop as you halve sensor size, at the same magnification. Pixel density also plays a part, and its interesting to compare 20mp 1" sensors with 20mp 43rds sensors with 42mp full frame - there is no mafic bullet to get around small sensel (pixel) size and noise management issues.
  10. eye start focusing or similar? when you hold the viewfinder to your eye, the camera will start to AF on whatever is in the frame at the current AF point. absolutely right that high resolution sensors need much better technique - I remember reading several reports from people going to 36Mp and getting lots of issues that lesser sensors had hidden. I also know of one professional who went back to 16Mp from 24Mp as the denser sensor revealed more issues with things falling out of DOF, but where stopping down just led to more diffraction - so he used to down-sample 24Mp images to 16Mp! I hope the O.P. gets this diagnosed if it is a genuine problem not limited to his camera.
  11. I would assume the high ISO performance is nothing to get excited about - like Fuji, Olympus tend to inflate their ISO values by about 1EV (take a look at DX0), so 1,600 on the dial is actually about ISO 800, which may give some users a false impression of ISO ability. I hear that the Olympus jpeg engine is pretty good, so camera jpegs may look good. m43rds wouldn't be my first choice for low light work due to sensor size, as for noise management and dynamic range unfortunately "size does matter". I did read a report in the UK's "Amateur photographer" magazine some time ago where one of the Olympus cameras was used to shoot a gig - the general feeling that I remember was that the results weren't bad, but you had to play to it's strengths, and it wasn't as good as larger formats. Focusing always seem to be on of the OM-D/Pen series strong points. I don't understand your comment about larger file size? Most m43rds cameras produce 20Mp files whilst Fuji now use 24Mp sensors. The high resolution mode in Olympus cameras only works with static subjects as it effectively has to shoot the same image twice and use the IBIS system to pixel shift the sensor to grab twice as many pixels. You are right that few people seem to run both systems, though I did talk to a member at the Fuji X Forum who used both and at the time seemed happy, though I don't think he had an X ILC at the time but maybe an X100. Be aware that I saw something recently about how club lasers can kill your camera sensor.
  12. in the bad photo, the only thing that is sharper than the good one is the "canon sony" photo shop sign in the bottom left... hard to know if the camera has deliberately focused on this or it's just coincidence that it's in focus. there were some firmware issues with manual focus distances moving between shots before, but nothing like this with AF that I'm aware of.
  13. random question - in the pictures that are out of focus, is *anything* actually in focus? Just wondering if anything else is at play.
  14. The DOF guide in the viewfinder has always been inaccurate and will show different distances when focusing on the same thing again and again. From my experience it is therefore best ignored as it never appeared to accurately show the actual focus distance - I wouldn't interpret getting different distances on the scale to indicate the camera has mis-focused. I'm not entirely sure what focus area mode you are in (I think the names may have changed since my Fuji cameras) - are you using the wide area? or a large "zone" that can be moved around the frame? or the single point square, which you can change size between S, M and L? The L spot focusing point is much less accurate than the smallest one as you can't be use what it will focus on within the square. I suggest use the smallest spot focus point. ALso, what AF mode are you using? You say AF-S - so no continuous AF or tracking AF or anything? What about shutter priority? I think the new cameras may have a mode that when turned on allows the shutter to be released even when focus isn't confirmed - is this off? Replace the main circuit board? That is just the default repair for electronics as the repair staff can't diagnose individual electronic problems. I have the same thing with my central heating or washing machine - just replace the board and hope it fixes it! I wouldn't interpret this as meaning there was anything wrong with your original camera. I'm curious that you say the other field of the frame which only focuses with CDAF is accurate but the central area isn't (is the PDAF area marked in the viewfinder?). That really makes me think it's menu options or something... It's hard to believe the design has the problem you report and nobody else has noticed, as you say other X-T2s you tried in the dealer behave the same (with their lenses or yours)?
  15. its fairly common that converters are only suitable for certain lenses, and are often matched optically by the manufacturer to work well with certain models. Third party converters can often be used with a wider range of lenses, but perhaps with lower optical quality and the need for the buyer to be aware that they don't cause damage mounting to an unsuitable lens. the other option of course is cropping.