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About artuk

  1. sounds as if you have pre focus enabled. when you zoom,the camera attempted to focus ( our of focus because you are zooming) when you stop zooming, camera is able to focus again
  2. Sounds like the camera has some problems with lens alignment (if the images do not show equivalent sharpness left to right). I hope you bought it from an understanding dealer who will refund or replace it?
  3. Generally, you cannot manually focus and then zoom - only lenses made specifically for video work ("par focal" lenses) will maintain a consistent focus ring position when zooming. Most stills photo lenses will shift their focus whilst zooming ("vari focal" lenses) when manually focused - you should zoom to your required focal length and THEN focus manually. The speed of zooming should make no difference. Or use AF - but when you zoom, the camera will need to re-focus, so continuous focus mode is required - in single focus mode, if you have already pre-focused with a half press of the shutter and THEN zoom, you will get the same problem as with manual focusing: out of focus images.
  4. The shouldn't really be driving ISO very high, with a high-ish shutter speed, and producing "correct" exposures. If spot metering was biasing the exposure incorrectly, I would expect the results to be dramatically over exposed (due to dark spot meter area making the exposure very bright by using high ISO).
  5. jpeg only. They are only useful when shooting in camera jpegs. by all means shoot raw and adjust the camera settings to give a good view of the file - for example brightest shadows and darkest highlights may help you see the final potential of the raw file, but aren't included in its data. even though I mostly work from raw, I will still set up the camera to simulate the final look I may want. Fuji software may apply the same settings used from the raw, I don't know. dr settings affect raw file contents.
  6. You have confirmed my understanding of how it works. mode of the button should in no way affect the results - press and hold and press once to lock should give the same exposure on the same scene. if one mode drives up ISO then indeed it is yet another bug. there is already an issue with ev lock (Pres to lock, when the button is configured to lock exposure only, not af too) - it disabled the ability to move the af point around the frame. I reported it to Fuji over 4 years ago but rumour was that a firmware architecture issue prevented their ability to fix. I hope for your sake ev lock single doesn't have this bizarre effect on iso
  7. I don't understand your answer. I thought the AE/AF lock mode settings determined if you lock the AE or AF or both when the button was pressed and held, or when the button was pressed once to lock and then pressed again to unlock? What is it when it's set to "S" and why would this make a very high ISO to be used? (Unless locking a very dark exposure which requires very high ISO)
  8. W Wow, old topic! Dynamic Range under-exposes the image to preserve highlights, and then performs "tone mapping" to brighten shadow areas. Tone mapping looks at small groups of pixels or areas of an image and increases localised brightness and adjusts contrast as required. It's why high DR settings can create "flat" looking images that seem to lack global contrast, and also shouldn't really be used on people pictures are it tends to make their faces look very smooth and plastic because it removes all the shadow/tonal detail in the structure of their face. Just FYI - although the camera may report a higher ISO when using DR settings, it isn't "using a higher ISO to increase dynamic range" because actually, using a high ISO by itself will DECREASE dynamic range. It is exposing at a lower ISO, and then applying the luminance adjustments described above to recover mid tone and shadow details - so it is similar in effect to using a higher ISO, but shouldn't really be confused. Shadow and Highlight settings merely adjust the top and bottom end of the "curves". Curves is a fancy way of saying contrast, and applies particularly to film makers, but is used to adjust whether the light and dark tones fade slowly or quickly to white and black. The 2 things are different but can be used in combination. The film simulations may themselves have different curves / contrast profiles too, so it's worth starting with the film simulation you like, then adusting the highlights and shadows to taste. DR should only really be used when you have a scene with very high contrast where it's not possible to maintain highlight and shadow detail within a normal exposure. I'm not sure how a video to explain film simulations takes 15 minutes?
  9. Not being an Apple user, and without the original request making that clear, I highly suspect that is the issue. Just have to wait for Fuji to update their App.
  10. Sounds like a software problem. Depending on the dealer, they may not feel it is a "fault". A hard reset on the camera may be worth trying, and deleting and reinstalling the App on your phone.
  11. you want it pre or post capture? if post capture, it's only available if the image is "Played" manually - in auto review, I believe it cannot be shown
  12. Question about RAW files

    VJC, I've never seen a *separate* jpeg when shooting raw only. The jpeg preview that the camera builds (to make the picture viewable on the rear screen) is embedded within the raw file, and some software (such as the camera, and some raw development software) will show that thumbnail or embedded image. Further to VJCs point, a "jpeg" is a widely supported to image file format that contains a compressed image file (as opposed to TIF, GIF etc). It is still a file of data, but contained in a format that most computers, cameras etc know how to unpack for display. Each pixel in the jpeg is like a pixel on your screen - it is full colour and contains red, green and blue data to make a single RGB pixel on the screen. (as Dem says) The raw file contains the data captured on the image sensor of your camera, and is separate to a jpeg. As mentioned, it may contain a thumbnail or other viewable "preview" of the image that the camera created and wrote into the file along with the data. As Dem says, the raw data itself is not directly viewable on the screen because of it's format and nature. Your sensor has single colour pixels (either Red, Green or Blue) whereas an image file must contain full colour pixels with Red Green and Blue values for each pixel. TO convert the raw data to a viewable image requires a process called "demosaicing" where sets of pixels, each one an individual colour, are processed as a set to create a screen pixel that has both Red, GReen and Blue data to make it displayable. When the camera creates a jpeg file, it is performing this demosaicing process on the raw data, to create a full colour image, and then writing the result into a jpeg file, which contains image data that can be easily displayed on a screen. The jpeg file is smaller as the data is compressed, and effectively removes values where they repeat - so for example, if 10 pixels have a value of 100, it doesn't hold the "100" value 10 times, but instead contains a single "100" value and then an indicator to say it occurs for the next 10 pixels. That is why jpeg files are much smaller than the raw files, although if a jpeg is created with the least possible compression (highest quality), then a 24Mp jpeg file may reach 15-25Mb depending on the content of the photo. So jpegs are image files that contain an image with full colour pixels that can easily be displayed on a screen, whereas a raw file is sensor data where every pixel is only a single colour and needs to be interpreted with it's neighbours in order to recreate a viewable image - but which may contain a small viewable image inside the raw file that was created by the camera at the time the file was written, and which software which can read the raw file is able to extract to offer a quick preview.
  13. Question about RAW files

    I don't really know how to answer the question, as the question isn't very clear. When the camera creates a raw file of the data from the sensor, it also builds a preview of it. This is done in camera in a similar way to a jpeg, but it is smaller and lower resolution. This is what appears on the rear screen of the camera when you view the raw file. When you copy the raw file to your computer, your computer will show an icon for the software associated with the file. If you have installed a plug in on your computer that allows your computer to "read" the contents of the raw file, then the computer may show an image instead of an icon in your filing system. On Windows computers with Sony raw files, I must install this Sony plug-in, and it allows my computer to show thumbnails in the filing system, and also open and display the content of raw files in the Windows Photo viewer - but again this is a "quick and dirty" preview of the file, is not full resolution, and doesn't take account of all the settings used in camera when the raw file was created (e.g. film simulation). These are previews of the contents of the raw file - the thumbnails are kept within the Windows filing system to make it quicker to see them the next time the directory is displayed. The views using Windows Photo viewer are generated real time, but discarded when the photo viewer is closed.
  14. What is meant by "layers" in PS and GIMP?

    FWIW there are a number of newer raw development and editing tools that are very "filter" based, rather like smart phone apps, and also offer automated optimisation of files. Examples would be On1 raw developer and On1 Effects, or Affinity or Luminar. Whether any of them actually suit someone who has no experience of editing I'm not sure, as filter effects apps can be bought at very low cost (e.g. Polarr or On1 Effects), and I actually find their user interface very confusing - but that may be because I already know how to use "traditional" image editing software. Only you can tell what does what you want and what you like to use, so it maybe worth trying different software until you find one that you think suits you.
  15. I’ve got a spot

    It's a dust spot that probably hasn't been removed by your cleaning. I do find that some "dust" really gets stuck, I think perhaps the sensor glass becomes warm/hot when in use, which I think may make some substances stick more. From my own experience with other brand cameras, you just need to clean again, and be "persistent" but careful! I don't know how you clean - blower brush followed by a surface clean is usually best. Don't blow (can get moisture drops), and I don't like wet cleaners (too many issues). I used a "lenspen sensor clear" pen which has a soft tip that can be stroked across the sensor - for stuck on spots, it takes some light pressure and repeated movement across the area to dislodge really stuck on dirt. Have you checked the rear elements of your lens, inside the mount? Do you get it with every ones, or only that one? If it's every lens then the dirt is on the sensor - if it's only 1 lens, its on/in the lens.