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About artuk

  1. ...but I thought at some point after the X-Pro 1 they added a firmware change to allow the user to configure the cameras to allow body control of aperture and shutter speed (instead of the dedicated controls)?
  2. I don't know the exact control layout of your camera, but the rear dial is allowing access to 1/3ev shutter speeds, as the shutter speed dial only has full stop values - it's the only way to get those intermediate values, and unfortunately when you have used it and taken a shot, the shutter speed is reset to the value on the shutter speed dial - so if you want to consistently use an intermediate value, you have to keep setting it. As for your request "can I assign shutter speed and aperture to the control wheels?", I thought it was possible through an option within the menus - I assume the manual may explain it. Some lenses don't have apertures and therefore you MUST use a control wheel on the camera, and some of the cameras don't have a shutter speed dial and so you must use a control wheel on the camera - therefore the camera software certainly allows a body control to be used for both shooting parameter.
  3. A slightly random thought, but another user reported problems with focusing with his 55-200mm lens. From what he reported, when he had the aperture stopped down, the camera focuses at open aperture, then stops down. In some lens designs, this is known to cause "focus shift". He found it most noticeable when close focused, as obviously with more distant focus, the added depth of field when the camera stops the lens down may mask any shift in focus position. After quite a lot of testing, he returned the camera and lens to Fuji in his country, and it was returned as "working to spec". Is there a chance his findings were a different version of the same problem? (I can't remember which camera body he was using - the discussion thread is here somewhere).
  4. when I had this error, it was a problem with the electrical contacts between the camera and lens - remove the lens, check and if necessary clean the contacts with a lint free cloth, and hopefully it will be fine. another issue is when a lens focus is physically jammed
  5. If a firmware update "fails" in some way (e.g. the camera won't work when turned on), is it possible to load updated firmware? I guess it depends what went wrong with the previous update and whether the camera is in a state where it can detect and read a new firmware file off the card. Sony perform updates via PC software, with the camera tethered via USB, which I hate. I've seen reports of people having problems during the process, though fortunately it seems quite robust in that they have managed to restart the process and complete it successfully a second time.
  6. I know exactly what you mean. Minolta A mount was always fairly secure (although there were some differences in tolerances), whereas E mount seems much more prone to slackness and wobble in the mount - I had always assumed it was in part because in a system that focuses off the main sensor, any issues are largely self correcting, so manufacturing tolerances are less critical. It's hard to imagine why a camera that was working before a firmware update suddenly developed an issue with it's mother board after firmware update. I suspect it's a software problem, but it could be that even a Fuji service engineer can't update firmware on an effectively "bricked" camera.
  7. Fuji replaced the circuit board because the camera didn't start after a firmware update? Service technicians often have limited ability to diagnose problems with complex electronic and software issues, so the default response to something that doesn't work where a problem can't be diagnosed is to replace the mother board and hope it resolves it.
  8. Landscape lens

    Agreed - most people don't need a fast aperture wide angle lens for landscape photography - therefore you are paying a lot of money for performance (fast aperture) that you don't need. It also makes the lens bigger and heavier. We have discussed "what lens is best for landscape" many times here, and on other forums. It would be useful to see landscape work you take, or others work you aspire to - because there is often a misconception that "landscape = ultra wide angle". Lots of landscapes are taken with standard zooms or even tele-zooms, as wide angle lenses make the horizon appear very far away and make all the details very tiny. They also only work on compositions where there is some foreground interest to fill the frame, otherwise compositions are full of full foreground near the camera without much to see, with tiny details off on the horizon. I would politely suggest that an 18-55 or a 55-200 or both might be better suited to landscape work - but it really depends on what you are trying to achieve. I use a 16-35mm (full frame) for cityscapes and skylines, but may often shoot in the 28-35mm focal length (full frame), and often use a 24-70mm zoom instead.
  9. I will give some generalised advice, not specific to Fuji, about moving from an SLR to mirrorless. Focusing: In good light, there is little difference in focus performance. As light levels drop, focusing slows due to the different focusing technologies in SLRs and Mirrorless cameras, and typically mirrorless will not be as fast as a really good SLR. However, since mirrorless focusing is off the sensor (rather than via an AF distance array in the DLR prism), focusing tends to be more accurate with fast aperture lenses such as 50mm f1.4 type designs and similar when compared to SLRs. I had lots of problems with consumer grade SLRs and fast lenses as the build quality and tolerances were not high enough to ensure no focusing errors with SLRs. With mirrorless, its slower, and in very low light may completely fail, but if it does focus, it is generally very accurate. For landscapes - probably not an issue. Mirrorless also makes manual focusing easier than an SLR viewfinder as some models offer focus peaking and magnification of a small area, so you can see what you are focusing on more easily than an optical viewfinder. Viewfinder: you will have to use an EVF. Some people don't like them. They are better in very low light as they brighten the image based on the exposure, whereas an OVF in an SLR becomes very dark. They often have a slight lag between what is happening in real life and hat you see in the viewfinder, which can be an issue for action - but some mirrorless cameras have less shutter lag than SLRs (e.g. using electronic front curtain from the sensor rather than having to open a mechanical shutter), so you gain some responsiveness too. The viewfinders allow zebra stripes to show highlight clipping, a histogram, a level guide and other refinements over an SLR OVF. Sensor size: my own opinion is that larger sensors are better than smaller ones. Modern APS-C cameras offer the kind of performance seen in full frame models from 5 years ago, but cannot match the latest full frame sensors for dynamic range and noise management. Noise is probably not an issue for landscape work - dynamic range may be. You can check DXOMark and compare various sensors (but not Fuji sensors) to see how various camera models perform relative to each other. More dynamic range means greater ability to lift shadows or recover highlights. Fuji sensors don't break the laws of physics because they are made by Sony and therefore perform very similarly to similar Sony sensors in other cameras (e.g. X-T2 is equivalent to Sony A6500) - what you can see is dynamic range, colour depth and noise management are very good, but not as good as the best modern larger sensors. It really depends how serious you are about your photography? Do you print large or just show on your phone or web page? An X-T2 costs more than an entry level full frame mirrorless camera, is about the same size, is probably better at continuous shooting and focus tracking, but isn't quite as good at landscapes and portraits etc due to a smaller sensor size. If portability and weight are critical, there are other mirrorless systems that maybe smaller and lighter than some combinations of Fujis system, or full frame. I know several photographers, including some very serious travel and landscape users, who shoot with Sony E mount (formally "NEX"), others use Olympus m43rds system. Another option would be to replace your D90 with one of Nikon's latest entry level SLRs, which are very small and light, and then choose appropriate lenses for travel. Fuji lenses, particularly zooms, won't really be any smaller or lighter than APS-C SLR lenses. If you prioritise portability than an entry level small SLR body and a couple of decent "kit" zooms which offer very good image quality may be the cheapest solution (SLRs now are often much cheaper than fashionable mirrorless systems). Edit: One thing I would say about Fuji is that the raw files are different to other cameras, and historically haven't always offered the very best pixel level results - particularly when processing the raw files with software on your computer (e.g. Lightroom). Previously when I looked closely at camera jpegs and developed raw files, very fine organic random detail was often not rendered particularly well and looked a little like impressionist or watercolour paintings. Other owners here should be able to advise if these effects still exist. It would be a non issue if you don't pixel peep or never print large.
  10. So the first one, neither the horizon nor the near field is sharp? If you have checked the shutter release priority, and this is happening regularly, and you are confident that it's not camera shake etc, then I can only suggest returning the camera and lens to Fuji for a warranty repair. Does this only happen with a particular lens, or any? edit: do you use OSS - was it on for these shots? I have seen examples on other systems where lens based stabilisation systems can randomly cause problems with sharpness, because some elements in the lens are "floating" and able to move around - some times they move incorrectly, during exposure. I've got no evidence this happens with Fuji's system (never experienced it with my 18-55mm), but other systems definitely can exhibit this random problem. Some people turn OSS type systems off when light is good, as they believe the lenses are better with the elements "parked".
  11. Fuji 200mm will be f2

    Exactly. For what I needed it for - stage events during long haul travel - I was more than happy to trade the size and particularly weight for the 70-200mm f2.8 I previously owned. The Minolta 200mm was 13.5cm long (on a system with a registration of about 4.8cm) - I don't see any reason for an APS-C equivalent at f2 to be significantly larger, perhaps just a little longer because of the reduced registration distance.
  12. It's hard to tell from these sized samples - is ANYTHING in the blurred picture in focus (from near camera to horizon)? It doesn't appear to be, but it's very hard to tell. I've come across examples with mirrorless cameras where they will completely fail to focus at random, sometimes not focus locking at all, or sometimes focusing but not on the thing the focus box appear to be pointed at. One thing to consider, does the camera have an AF / Shutter priority feature? In some systems, the camera can be configured to release the shutter when pressed, even if focus has not been locked (it's more appropriate with continuous AF and continuous shooting). If turned on, and the shutter was pressed before a successful AF cycle, it can cause out of focus problems. The price of a similarly sized full frame mirrorless camera? ;-)
  13. Hi VJC, you may not believe me, but I wasn't trying to make unsubstantiated claims to try and blacken Fuji's reputation. My experience with the X Pro 1 was what it was, and I make no claims that I own any of the newer cameras (the newest one I've used with the X-M1). The issue about the shutter not firing was reported in Amateur Photographer, in response to a letter asking for technical help, where the editorial response was that there was an issue and Fuji were reported to be looking into it. The issue about the focus distance scale is an X100 issue caused by a firmware update that reportedly Fuji has acknowledged and is looking into. I freely admit the other issues such as focusing, lens problems etc are mostly user reports here or other places, and I know that "internet amplification syndrome" can appear to exaggerate problems. I don't want to talk about other brands here (i.e. name names) as some people become very emotional about it, but it's no secret I use other cameras and my only Fuji camera is an original X100. All camera systems have issues from time to time - Sony have a bit of a reputation for alignment problems with some of their E mount lenses, which has affected me on 3 occasions, although the problems seem to be getting better with newer models - but I always advise people to buy from a reputable dealer where they can return lenses for exchange because of the issues. The cameras have had fewer problems (in the sense of "bugs") but there are a few operational curiosities - but certainly not problems introduced by updates that affect stability, focusing etc. I do agree that there can be elements of user error because the focusing systems are different on SLRs and mirrorless, and with great respect some users are very uninformed about the operation and technology inside their cameras, which can lead to user error. As an outsider looking in, it does *feel* as if Fuji have gone backwards after a period of dealing with these types of problems: indeed some of these issues such as focus scale and focus creep are similar to previous issues that were introduced by firmware updates, and previously fixed.
  14. Fuji 200mm will be f2

    I used to own the simply brilliant Minolta 200m f2.8 G APO, one of the best 200mm lenses ever made - it was surprisingly compact and light for it's spec. As you say, the length of the lens doesn't change much with sensor size, and the front element scales with aperture - I'm assuming an f2.8 on full frame may be no larger than an f2 on APS-C. My Minolta 200mm had a 72mm filter thread and weighed about 700g - very reasonable compared to fixed aperture tele-zooms.
  15. Well done for basically making a big enough issue about it to get what you want! Regarding sale of goods etc I believe VJC is correct, you can go to county court are represent yourself - I suspect Fuji (and most other companies) would not bother with the expense of sending someone or a lawyer to represent themselves as it would cost more than the claim. If a defendant doesn't appear in court, the case cans till be heard, and if the judge rules in your favour they are legally bound to pay - if they do not, then I believe a bailiff can then be appointed to reclaim the value. I'm by no means an expert in this, but that is my understanding.