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About artuk

  1. I found it quite frustrating too, as someone who likes to meter a contrasty scene and lock the exposure I want. The other workaround suggested to me was to shoot in manual exposure, but that's not how I generally work, and somewhat makes a camera with auto exposure a bit pointless. It's a shame they can't fix it, bit when I tried an X Pro 2 at a show, it was exactly the same. so the only options are: - work out your framing, and set the af point where you want it first, then recompose as necessary, lock af, then go back to your desired composition and focus again using your preset point (a bit of a fiddle, and it will affect the metering depending on when the af point is during exposure lock) - use manual exposure, and then you have to use the exposure scale and the meter point on it to gauge your exposure, and you dont need to use ae lock, so you avoid the problem with the focus point. Be aware that you need to set a menu item to ensure the evf shows the scene against the set exposure, otherwise the evf will auto gain to a normal exposure view regardless of your manual settings. In the latter case, whatever aperture and shutter you set, the meter scale in the bottom.of thr viewfinder will always show 0ev and the histogram will also be normalised, so will not reflect your exposure.
  2. That's a pretty bad delivery story in an industry known for bad stories! Lucky it turned out well for you. Most of the courier companies who handle parcels end to end seem to do what you describe into the UK. The exception is items.where the company the package is sent with dont operate in thr UK so it has to be handled by someone else - then it seems to be a.lottery if you are charged or not. I get annoyed the Royal Mail charge a very high handling fee for dealing with spot checks on small items,so you pay maybe £4 duty and a total charge of £18 or something! with Sterling so weak, it's not a good time to be importing, though obviously it's good for exports as Christopher highlights with his story about spectacles. I was shocked at the idea that buying anything in the UK could be cheap because of our prices and sales tax, but with Sterling so weak it probably offsets that. Generally, a $1000 camera in USA is £1000 in the UK (this final comment for non UK residents who may wonder what I'm talking aboit).
  3. jist a thought on the auto exposure issue with continuous: Does the setting suggested to turn off only relate to continuous shooting? or does it mean that exposure is NEVER locked with a half press of the shutter? I suspect the latter, which could be an issue who for those who focus and recompose. When exposure is locked with focus, depending on metering mode, the exposure is generally biased to the focus poin, which is probably what you want. With this setting off it will probably expose based on whatever is on the recomposed scene. In spot or centre weighted meter modes this poses a risk of serious exposure errors. do the cameras lock exposure on the first shot regardless of drive speed (e.g. at 3fps, 6fps, 9fps?). Other camera systems lock the exposure at the highest frame rate because they cannot meter or adjust the aperture quickly enough at very high frame rates.
  4. unfortunately it's a big in the camera since the X pro 1 - I did report it to Fuji more than once, but there was some suggestion that the firmware is written in a way that means it can't be fixed. when you use the AE lock button, in the mode where it remains locked until you press it again AND you have configured the button to ONLY lock exposure (not AF), you can no longer adjust the AF point. the only workaround is to focus first, then lock exposure.
  5. sorry to hear that. I hope the next firmware version doesn't take too long to be available. Speaking plainly, they really need to get on top of these issues, as they seem to keep having these types of problems, and although some may regard them as "minor" it shows a poor quality control process for software. hope you get a resolution quickly. I assume the work around is to constantly adjust the focus distance manually before every shot?
  6. An attractive abstract, particularly as a result of the vibrant colour and the "watery" effect.
  7. this was a known issue with X system ILCs with one particular firmware update that introduced a bug, that was later updated to fix. In MF mode, the focus distance slowly moved every time the shutter was half pressed (I seem to remember it moved to minimum). Do some proper testing, as if you can recreate it then it needs to be reported to Fuji again.
  8. You would probably get the most meaningful reply if you contacted Fuji and asked them. I'm not aware that they have published any specifications or APIs for controlling the cameras using wifi or USB, though clearly it is possible as they have their own apps to do that (I assume you are aware of them?). I strongly suspect it is not publicly available, and if available at all may require a licensing fee, but Fuji need to confirm that.
  9. lovely!
  10. There are some very nice pictures on your website. I do think there is some repetition that would benefit from a smaller selection of photos (e.g. there are 3 photos looking out from a glass fronted building, there are several very similar looking at the Empire State Building), so viewers get to see the ones you think are "best". It is also a pity that the weather when you visited central park wasn't very conducive to outdoor photography (grey skies etc) - it's always frustrating as on short trips there isn't much you can do, but perhaps consider a black and white treatment, or perhaps shooting in a different way to avoid the weather and grey skies? There were a few that I thought were a little weak (big concrete block dominating the frame in the photo of the Lamborghini) or perhaps didn't really belong as a "set" (dog on the subway). I hope you won't take his negatively, there are some really good photos there, but I think they would have much more impact with a tighter selection, and bring out the vibrancy you were trying to convey.
  11. I think it was a result of the "democratising" nature of the Internet - everyone can make a video about something, even if they don't have the knowledge, skill or experience to make anything meaningful. He definitely meant composite as he zoomed in to take a photo of a particular focal point as he wanted lots of detail of that part.... errrr... yeah. Of course he didn't show that either someone else's software sorted out his mess, or he had to spend hours sorting it out himself, when a bit of rigour and care at the time of capture would have made the whole process rather easier in the end. Not suggesting you work this way, just reminded me...
  12. Interesting, thanks. By chance, I started to watch a video of a "Photographer" (I use the term loosely) who was photographing in Iceland. To my surprise and horror he just held his SLR out in live view and snapped away pointing the camera in different directions as he said he wanted to make a composite of the images... and there was me thinking you needed to have the camera on a tripod, movement needed to be exactly around the sensor plane, you needed to carefully compose to make sure you got enough overlap between shots... but no... just hold the camera at arms length and snap away. I stopped watching the video at that point, because clearly there were better ways to use my time...
  13. I assume the difficult part is keeping the camera completely fixed, and moving the focus distance in tiny increments to allow the stacking. Do you use rails or similar, or do by hand?
  14. The Dear Susan website has published another article I have written about fallow periods and struggling for inspiration. The article includes architectural photographs taken in Singapore, where I talk about looking for and finding inspiration in unexpected subjects. Dear Susan : The Powers of Darkness The photos were not taken with Fuji cameras, although other Dear Susan contributors own and write about Fuji's X system.
  15. I believe the Takumar 55mm is well known from some research I did many years ago when looking at old film Cameras. I must declare a personal interest in Minolta, as a Minolta AF user for many years, but I do concur with VJC that many of the old Minolta MF lenses have very good reputations. In fact, Minolta were so good at making lenses that copied the characteristics of some of German lenses (micro contrast and colour) that Leitz contracted them to make some lenses and cameras for them, including the M mount CL and later the CLE. I don't have first hand experience with them, but know that a number of their lenses from the 1970s were very well regarded, as were their first generation AF lenses - which were all matched for colour and contrast, a rarity of the time and something companies like Canon simply didn't understand. I remember seeing some lovely examples of photos taken with the Takumar 55mm on film by an early Japanese blogger who experimented with many different cameras and lenses, including the somewhat ignored Ricoh R10 (aka "Elle").