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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    London, UK
  • Interests
    Until I recently became ill and very unfit - working my way back - Fell and mountain walking, wild camping, cycling, fishing when I can, and of course, photography since the 1960s. Lifelong Arsenal FC supporter.

Camera Gear

  • Camera List
    X-Pro1, X-T1.
  • Lens List
    Fuji Primes, 14mm f2.8, 18mm f2, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 60mm f2.4 90mm f2.
    Fuji zooms, 18-55mm OIS, 55-200mm OIS.
    Legacy glass, Minolta 24mm f2.8, Minolta 50mm f2, Minolta 135mm f2.8. Minolta Rokkor 58mm f1.4.
  1. I don't think the camera will recognise earlier FW. Also, you'd need to find someone who still had a copy on their computer because only the latest are kept on the Fuji websites.
  2. x100 cleaning

    If you can't reach it to clean yourself and it is not too much of a problem then leave it. It will cost almost as much as buying another X100 to have it cleaned. It will not affect your pictures.
  3. Bermuda trip lens recommendations...

    Just the same, I think your 16mm f1.4 is the answer to your needs and if not, then the 12mm Samyang. Whatever the 16mm can't handle, the OIS and wide end of the 18-55mm will. The 35mm is really too long for interiors. My personal choice from your gear list for the whole holiday would be 12mm f2, 16mm f1.4, 18-55mm OIS, 55-200mm OIS. Not much you can;t handle with that kit and you won't spend much time swapping lenses - or sweating too much! Have a great time both of you.
  4. I've used all the M. Rokkors listed on Fuji X and all were excellent with wonderful bokeh. Ultra sharpest was the 50mm f1.7 by a mere fraction. Best bokeh the 58 f1.4 but best all rounder was the the 50mm f1.4. Very little between them. The 58 has a few more mm for (IMO) a better portrait FL. The 50mm lenses are still great for portraits of course. Sample variance might move the list around entirely, that's how close they are. I think I'd go for the 50mm f1.4 now as it's a little cheaper and less likely to have been "over-cleaned" than the 58mm. Unfortunately the trade in old M. Rokkor lenses particularly has resulted in many having been disassembled and cleaned of dust and fungus and often of multi coating (such as it was then). Fungus is likely to return. I'd take one with a speck or two of dust in the hope it hasn't been pulled apart. Canon FD 50mm f1.2(L) and f1.4 are great lenses and used by many Fujistas - I'm keeping an eye out for a cheap one myself.
  5. My Fuji transformation

    A well written and interesting piece Jaime.
  6. I don't think this camera has the capacity to do time lapse and I also don't think it has the connectivity to be controlled by an external timer/intervalometer.
  7. Correct and I suspect that pcp 1960 actually has nothing wrong with his/her shutter either. Unfortunately they do not include any description of the problem and the pictures tell us nothing. I suspect it's either lens/body contact or the motherboard causing the problem.
  8. Getting into macro

    Hi Jimmy, have you considered Raynox 150/250. Being front fitting you don't need to remove the lens whenever you want close-ups/Macro. http://extreme-macro.co.uk/raynox-adapter-techniques/
  9. displaying photos on a lap top (its bad)

    Do a search for "Screen calibration". Also, don't forget the angle of the laptop screen will make a difference - easy to change that or re-calibrate at a comfortable viewing angle.
  10. Assuming the motherboard was replaced by Fuji - I believe they give another 1 year complete warranty after the replacement. This should not be happening to you. Tell them it is still not right. Vic
  11. Surely you know where to find it by now Pom. FW 1.11 is current for the X100T. http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/firmware/x/x100t/
  12. Currently also only XP2 with XT2 to follow soon - but not to other X cameras. The OP is looking for a viewer/browser and has Lightroom already. Unfortunately, the referred to software "Fuji X Raw Studio" will only output JPGs. A shame because I like the idea but if it cannot produce a tiff for any further work which may be needed it is rather crippled to begin with for most raw shooters. It is no doubt intended for those who currently use the in-camera processor to produce their jpgs and who currently can only use a small screen - something I've always thought that idea was silly. This new software will be good for those users and particularly for any pros who have a high turnover of images to produce very quickly (Weddings?) but would like to make quick changes on a larger screen than the camera provides.
  13. displaying photos on a lap top (its bad)

    Hi Pom, first question how do you view your pictures on fb? How do you view them otherwise? Have you calibrated your monitor - usually there's some supplied software for basic calibration with the OS. You can at least adjust the screen brightness to give back your blacks and contrast to colours. You dropped your camera again! You're becoming accident prone mate. You may have inadvertently altered a setting. Do you have ISO assigned to front control wheel y any chance? Easiest thing is to do a factory reset then setup your camera again afresh. Don't forget to reset the ev to 0.
  14. Thanks for the detailed explanation Jiri.B I have to say first that all Fuji X cameras from the original X100 and X-pro1 have shown wildly inaccurate distances and DoF scales. There was also at one time a problem, mostly with the X100 series, where each press of the shutter button caused the displayed distance to jump closer. These problems were supposedly fixed with a FW update (2 updates back I think, although I still find the distance scale inaccurate). Even since then - there have been problems reported including some on this forum where the camera has been returned to Fuji for a new motherboard to be fitted to cure the problem. If your camera/s are within warranty they should be repaired and even if they are not, I think you should ask Fuji about a free repair since it is now a know failing on a few cameras. I would trust the the beep (which I switch off when I get a new a camera) and I only check the green light in low visibility situations. For me the jump into focus is obvious enough. I should add though that my photography these days is not practiced under exacting circumstances and rarely do I need to shoot quickly.
  15. Hi gscottart If you import raw and convert to JPG without manipulation (processing surely) why do you not simply take JPGs? A JPG conversion of an unprocessed raw file will give the worst possible result - or am I misunderstanding you?