veejaycee

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About veejaycee

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    London, UK
  • Interests
    Until I recently became ill and very unfit - working my way back - Fell and mountain walking, wild camping, cycling, fishing when I can, and of course, photography since the 1960s. Lifelong Arsenal FC supporter.

Camera Gear

  • Camera List
    X-Pro1, X-T1.
  • Lens List
    Fuji Primes, 14mm f2.8, 18mm f2, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 60mm f2.4 90mm f2.
    Fuji zooms, 18-55mm OIS, 55-200mm OIS.
    Legacy glass, Minolta 24mm f2.8, Minolta 50mm f2, Minolta 135mm f2.8. Minolta Rokkor 58mm f1.4.
  1. Does the focus distance actually change? I mean, if you continue to take photos do they become progressively more out of focus?
  2. You can always find some sort of sign with the name on it to photograph. Personally I've never had a problem remembering where pictures were taken whether in UK or travels abroad.
  3. Excellent pictures - no poor ones at all but some are inevitably better or more striking than others. As Artuk says, while you'll obviously keep them all they do need thinning out to a selection of the very best in a manageable length of slide show. This keeps viewers attention fresh and maybe leaves them wanting more instead of tiring of hitting the next button.
  4. Interesting method I use a focus rail on tripod for focus staked images but I wouldn't attempt this. Not sure whether the (perhaps) less fraught time in the field is worth more time in pp. I use LR which seems to work fine and I can run the raw files through IXT first. What lens and aperture did you use for these. I wonder of if using CH and E shutter to shoot bursts while attempting small movement back and forth would work. I've successfully used that technique for shooting with my MF Canon 300mm + X1.4 TC but then I'm just looking for one very sharp result rather than several.
  5. You're not fully pimped until you have one of these John: http://rigu.co.uk/personalised-tan-leather-camera-strap-cam2233
  6. A well written and interesting article Adrian with even more interesting, inspiring and excellent pictures. I'm a lover of Art Deco and a sucker for straight lines, diagonals and curves - in fact I just bought some 1920 Art Deco Bohemian glass for our 50th anniversary. I also like your choice of BW to suit the overcast conditions yet my favourite is #14 (not counting the spiral header). The subtle colours and curves are really to my liking. I recommend other members to checkout this great article.
  7. Ypou will probably find a sticker on the wrapping from the vendor stating the contents and/or their value. Digitalrev somehow get away with it by stating contents are of low value yet all the various countries customs units must be aware of this. I a little surprised that so many have bought thumbrests for the XT1/2. They are the Fuji X bodies to which I've found it unnecessary to add a thumbrest. Fuji added a little bump on the camera back to rest the thumb on and I find that ideal for me and anything added would be in my way of using some buttons/wheels.
  8. Don't forget that the controls of the first bodies and lenses with their analogue controls were the reason many came to Fuji and they still are. Flintstone's Ergonomics is what sold Fuji X Trans. I'm at a loss as to why you even shoot Fuji if you like DSLR type ergonomics. I simply don't like the non-ring and the focal length which is neither one thing or the other. It is useful (but limited) as a compact setup along with 18mm and one of the small bodies but that's the best I can say about it. The lack of aperture ring is one reason many won't buy this lens while for some it's part of the reason they do. If I wanted that I could have stayed with DSLRs I hate having so many forms of aperture control on Fuji lenses. All should have aperture rings with marked apertures and definite click stops and end stops. That's why I like the 14,16, 23mm all with distance and DoF markings too. I can look down at my camera and see all the settings - without even switching on the camera.. How does having an aperture ring "disrupt your grip on the camera"? With anything but a pancake lens your left hand would be supporting the setup by holding the lens anyway.
  9. Excellent detail but with your name beside it my subconscious told me to look for a Merlin nesting on the cliff - as they do. Still looking,
  10. I feel your pain. I don't order anything of value from outside EU now because of that. I got my Canon FD 300mm f4l from Japan because you can trust the dealers there so mint means mint I paid £300 for the lens and got a demand from HMRC for another £100 in import duty and VAT - and even had to pay VAT on the import duty. Then Royal Mail wanted £30 for handling the customs charges. Nowt you can do but pay up mate. Cheap stuff from China costs nothing in duty and my thumbrests inc one still serving on my near 6 year old XP1 is still doing its job for £5 inc postage - shutter releases for same price. Unfortunately some accessories (for instance Wasabi batts and Lensmate) can only be had from USA.
  11. There are many threads about this on various forums. They all have responses quoting Fuji as saying the S battery has higher power necessary for the highest fps speed and for 4K video and that the S has much better heat dissipation. The non S is being phased out since the S can be used in all Fuji X cameras. This copied post sums up the majority of responses. "I spoke to Fuji in the UK about a month ago. They said it (non S) was not going to be available anymore. They said the 's' was its replacement and would work on all older cameras that took the last model battery. Interestingly they said the increased burst rate of the X-T2 was due to the battery alone. That is to say even with the grip if you didn't use the 's' then you wouldn't get the higher burst rate. Also the camera would overheat using 4K if the new batteries were not used. The new battery has an 'extra cell' that aids in heat dissipation."
  12. It is true that the maker of Fuji batteries is also the maker of a 3rd party battery (wish I could remember which) however, the 3rd party unit has a thinner casing and shorter life and is the one which began to swell. The user managed to get the battery out with some difficulty (XP2) and vowed to stay with Fuji batteries. So take care which 3rd party you use and be aware of any extra heat generated. If it does cause problems send the bill to Kiwi. Most likely just had an S added to their usual batteries - at that price - I think you get what you pay for. On pre XT2/XP2/X100F/XT20 bodies you just get a battery that doesn't last long - a bit more to worry about on the current bodies.
  13. I just checked X100f pictures (another forum) taken with both digital converters and all the exifs report as 23mm regardless.
  14. The S holds more power I believe and is less likely to get hot. There have been many reports especially concerning XP2/XT2 of 3rd party batteries swelling - including Wasabi/Pantona (same factory) which are generally accepted as best. The XPRO batteries are also good but you need to keep an eye on the swelling thing and once they begin the swell chuck 'em. I personally would not use use either 3rd party or non S batteries for 4K video in the XT2 battery pack but for stills shooting the usual good 3rd party S or non S type batteries should be okay but wont last as long. I have the XT2 (sans battery pack) and bought one spare genuine Fuji battery. I also carry a spare non S from one of my other Fuji bodies. You should be okay with your battery in the X100F but maybe don't use it for 4k video (if it has that) and if the camera base feels warm, change the battery. I read (can't find it now) a review/test of the main 3rd party batteries of both types compared to both Fuji types. Some units weighed less and held less power and did not last long. As expected, Wasabi/Pantone (in eu) and XPRO performed well but did not last quite so long as Fuji. More importantly for some, the camera's reporting of battery state differed. That is to say at half bar the 3rd party units were not far from needing to be changed while the Fujis were about 1/2 charge. At 30% the 3rd party units would last just a very few frames more while the Fuji's were truer to the rating.
  15. The actual rust is plain to see in patches. I think you were on the home from the local bar.