veejaycee

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About veejaycee

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    London, UK
  • Interests
    Until I recently became ill and very unfit - working my way back - Fell and mountain walking, wild camping, cycling, fishing when I can, and of course, photography since the 1960s. Lifelong Arsenal FC supporter.

Camera Gear

  • Camera List
    X-Pro1, X-T1.
  • Lens List
    Fuji Primes, 14mm f2.8, 18mm f2, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 60mm f2.4 90mm f2.
    Fuji zooms, 18-55mm OIS, 55-200mm OIS.
    Legacy glass, Minolta 24mm f2.8, Minolta 50mm f2, Minolta 135mm f2.8. Minolta Rokkor 58mm f1.4.
  1. Yes, that version of LR is correct for XT2 files. I very much recommend you try then Iridient for Windows - Iridient X Transformer. You can use it from within LR but it will export a tiff file into LR. I use IXT as a standalone either opening direct from its own file menu or from my image browser (FastStone) under the Edit with menu. Either way it will convert the raw to DNG (retaing the raw) and do the conversion automatically according to your settings. Below are my IXT settings. Note the LR import NR and sharpen is off. I do my NR and sharpen with nik Define and output sharpen. Once IXT has done its magic I pen the DNGs in LR. Iridient seems to have the conversion algorithm right and by avoiding LR sharpen too there is no trace of mushiness in distant foliage. Iridient has a free trial and is anyway very cheap. Vic
  2. Second row down, 4 from the left.
  3. http://www.fujifilm.com/news/n170222_02.html 80mm f2.8 macro should be soon. Best news is what looks like 300mm (hopefully f4 OIs prime + new 1.4X/2.0X TCs which are mooted to work with other Fuji lenses (2018). Two new video X lenses (not the newly announced Sony fit lenses of similar FLs).
  4. Thanks for the update. I've heard other stories like this recently and the lens has been hard to find new so maybe Fuji are checking all the existing unsold 16-55 f2.8 lenses for these faults. The most complained about problem has been misaligned elements leading to softness on one side or the other of the frame. I'm pleased you have yours back after being so patient but neither the problem nor the time taken to accept it and to rectify it is a very poor advertisement for Fuji.
  5. Quite agree Christopher, sarge, MadDog - most of us would be pleased with the warts!
  6. I have the Fuji EF 42 and it works very well either direct or bounced from hot shoe or via my Pixel FC-311/S 1.8 m TTL cord for Canon or controlled by the tiny X8 flash (supplied with XT1/XT2,). However, the EF 42 is not of the best build quality. If you use flash regularly and are continually mounting and dismounting flash, this may not be the best buy for you due to some having a weak hot shoe fitting. The very same flash may be purchased more cheaply by searching for Sunpak PZ42X TTL Flash. I've not shot with my EF flash much. I bought it when I thought I might need a fairly powerful flash for fill in on a School Proms shoot but in the end a reflector supplied enough shadow relief - and the sun never needs a second to recycle. Below is part of a copied response from another forum that may be of interest when the makers have the HSS sorted out - old thread so maybe they already have. " RoboSHOOT is a somewhat unique product. It allows any Fuji X camera with a flash system hot shoe to combine different brands of speed lights in an orchestrated constellation of lights. You can do things manually or you can use TTL. When the HSS situation settles down. RoboSHOOT is committed to supporting HSS. I have an MX-20 on my X-T2 and my SB-900 (Nikon), EF-42 (Fuji), and i60q (Nissin) connected together using the RX-20 receivers. It uses radio control to coordinate the different flashes. The transceiver (MX-20) attaches to the hot shoe of my Fuji X-T2. I then have the option of installing a speed light on the MX-20's hot shoe or setup a receiver and install a speed light there. I have four receivers and one transceiver so I can setup a constellation of lights." Although I take an interest in these developments I cannot understand why so many Fuji users (and no doubt others) on various fora can no longer live without HSS flash.
  7. A lot of your earlier comments are correct and are common sense. However ---- Fuji themselves say you can use the older type battery (in fact the X-pro2 was shipping with them). You should not charge them through the battery pack though - old type batteries should be removed for charging in the correct charger. You may not have the same increased frame rate if you use old type in the pack and you must not use the video for longer periods than 10 mins due to overheating. Personally, I'd use the same batteries all the way through and since I don't use video I'd be happy with NP-W126 units - then again, I don't need the increased frame rate and I definitely don't want the extra size and weight of a battery pack so what I'd actually do is use one new type battery and have a couple of old ones for backup and not buy a battery pack. In fact, I'm trying to get a handle on how easy the X-Pro1 is to manually focus through the EVF with legacy lenses because if that's okay I'll only be losing the custom AF settings (can probably manage without) and the tilt screen (I shall miss that since I don't bend too easily these days).
  8. Same body as XT10 and will take the same batteries/accessories, grips (hand and thumb and L bracket. Enjoy your new camera.
  9. http://www.thephoblographer.com/2017/02/17/fujifilm-announces-organic-sensor-tech-update/
  10. Thanks for the feedback John. From what I've read you are not alone in losing the eyepiece so lets hope they have made it a more permanent fixture on your camera now. Best, Vic
  11. I've been using Iridient X Transformer for a short while outside of LR. I setup IXT as per the screen capture below (note LR sharpening is off) and open the file or files directly to save as dng which I then import into LR. After normal process (no NR, no sharpen), I export tiffs to PS for any further work beginning with Nik Define (nr) as first step and Nik Output sharpener as last step to the tiff file at full size. Assuming my picture will be posted on the web or viewed on screen I then resize and add a high pass sharpen and save as a jpg copy. I've always preferred Nik sharpener to LR and have been generally happy with my finished files but since using this new method I've even been downloading troublesome raw files supplied by others and using the above method to improve on LR only processing. It seems likely to me that Iridient demosaicing may well improve on the output from other well known converters. You can download Iridient as a trial before purchasing a license (cheap). If you currently use LR give it a try. If you currently use another converter try out IXT as first step, I'd be interested in the results.
  12. What an appalling attitude for someone to join only to ask a question and then complain about the answers given because he has not been clear in the first place. When I asked about the focus point I meant the actual point of focus in the resulting mis-focused image - not the focus rectangle in your viewfinder. By searching another forum I have found a likely answer to the same problem with the same camera but a different lens lens, it would be VERY nice if you go look for it yourself. Do not accuse me of spamming the thread when I am trying to assist (inc searching other forums for you) you ungrateful.......
  13. I wonder if the OP has tried the AF lock back button. I always got a better hit rate using it and when I've mentioned to others, they have too.
  14. I believe the XT2 does have something like eye start AF.
  15. The exif is the same for each but quite clearly the focus jumps from the distant center in one to the near lower left of frame in the other. Does the focus point move in the same direction each time it is out of focus? I'm flummoxed.