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veejaycee

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About veejaycee

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    London, UK
  • Interests
    Until I recently became ill and very unfit - working my way back - Fell and mountain walking, wild camping, cycling, fishing when I can, and of course, photography since the 1960s. Lifelong Arsenal FC supporter.

Camera Gear

  • Camera List
    X-Pro1, X-T1.
  • Lens List
    Fuji Primes, 14mm f2.8, 18mm f2, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 60mm f2.4 90mm f2.
    Fuji zooms, 18-55mm OIS, 55-200mm OIS.
    Legacy glass, Minolta 24mm f2.8, Minolta 50mm f2, Minolta 135mm f2.8. Minolta Rokkor 58mm f1.4.
  1. ...... and yet I have a very deep gouge on my screen protector which would definitely (not probably) have damage the screen. It looks like a gouge caused by a strap buckle or maybe another camera being pushed in on top if my camera bag. I daresay that most of the time you can get away without a protector but if you're going to fit one to cover the odd chance of damage, then might as well get a known good one for a small outlay.
  2. Expert Shield. They guarantee their screen protectors. I once mentioned in a review that mine had taken a deep gouge from something sharp and heavy but saved my screen. They sent me a new protector. I never used it because the damage is one edge and I couldn't be bothered to fit the new one (fiddly job).
  3. That's possible The latest X-A3 might have something like that. On the XT20 I can configure the shutter speed to the rear control wheel but the front wheel does not appear to be configurable but restricted to use for aperture control of XC lenses.
  4. Some later models like my XT2 can have the ISO settings and shutter speed configured to the front control wheel. Standard setting for front wheel is ISO change, then push the wheel in and release for shutter speed change, push again for ISO. Using the shutter speed setting this the user can choose from in between shutter speeds rather than just full or 1/2 stops. I rarely shoot shutter priority but it can be handy to have full control over ISO settings without taking the camera down from shooting position. As a long time photographer I find there is too much automation and ways of overriding and setting parameters of same - even worse with so many different configurations of dials/buttons/switches with various restrictions on what can be used with what. I prefer to use manual or the simpler auto settings.
  5. Current latest version of LR6 is 6.12.
  6. If you get FastStone viewer go to Edit>edit in and add the programs you want to use LR, PS, etc. Highlighting one file and edit-in LR will open the whole folder for import in LR. Edit-in PS will only open single files in ACR. Will it help to download the Microsoft camera codec pack? https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/download/details.aspx?id=26829 should at least make your raw files available to Windows.
  7. How are you downloading the files? Forget wifi for raw file transfer. The easiest way to download is by simple SD card reader which you may already have built-in to your PC/mac or a separate card reader. Format your cards in-camera before use. To process XT20 files (and to download with) you will need LR6. Earlier versions will not recognise XT20 files. You can use FastStone viewer (free) to download, manage, view and edit in other software from.
  8. For 3 of my X bodies, XP1, XT1, XT2 I bought genuine Fuji handgrips. They are very light and compact yet provide an excellent grip. I bought a cheap one for my XE1 and luckily it fits both the camera and my hand quite well. It is double the weight of Fujis though. Having recently bought a bargain XT20 but quickly realised I needed a handgrip because it is 1cm less wide than the XE series so I ordered a cheap model. A picture of it is shown and as you can see there is not enough space to get my fingers between the grip and the lens so I have to splay my fingers apart especially with 23mm f1.4 or larger lens - 90mm, 55-200mm etc. I found a reduced price OEM grip and got that. Pictures show XT20 with no grip, with cheap grip and with Fuji grip. (Note that the gap is actually wider with the Fuji grip than without it.) Sometimes cheap is expensive.
  9. One of the main reasons people like Fuji is for their retro controls i.e. having the aperture adjustment on the lens. Only the entry level 16-50mm XC and 50-230mm XC lenses and the compact 27mm f2.8 prime have no aperture ring so they are adjusted by the front control wheel.
  10. 7artisans 7.5mm f2.8 Fisheye (FujiX mount)

    Thanks for this post. At that price and tiny size - I'm interested even IQ isn't as good as the Sammy 8mm. For me it's a novelty lens really.
  11. Fast battery chargers

    It is a known fact that all mirrorless cameras use far more power than DSLRs. Charge them and run them down a few times. After about 4 cycles you should find they are lasting longer. Fast charging is not the answer because they stop short of full charge. Ensure that the batteries really are genuine plenty of fakes around and some purport to be OEM. FYI the XT2/XP2 use far more power than the XT1. I use a very cheap and low power 3rd party in my XE1 which, when I take it to shoot IR is on all the time for about 3 hours and never run out yet. The standard 126 units are now discontinued in favour of the 126S.
  12. Better than the real thing.
  13. Lug Covers

    I prefer this idea but the shoes are getting in the way of the viewfinder. Did I miss something in the instructions?
  14. Hi Usman, On the side of the viewfinder by the ISO dial is the dioptre adjustment. Press the menu button then view the menu through the viewfinder. Turn the dioptre dial + / - until the menu is sharp.
  15. Flash for the X-series

    It's a very capable TTL flash which does a good job - not the most rugged. If you want off-camera flash this 3rd party cable for Canon works with full TTL. There are also non-coiled versions for use on stands. I got via Amazon for under £20. Pixel FC-311/S 1.8 m TTL Cord for Canon
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