I have the 14, 18-55, 35 and 60. For a compact travel kit that suits my style of photography I always reach for the 14 and 35. Just outstanding image quality from those two (okay the 60 as well, but I only take two lenses when travelling). The 14 is much wider than the wide end of the zoom, and that can be both a challenge and a blessing. It really is up to your style of photography and for some the zoom on it's own will be all they need.
I used a 'hot' plastic glue, backed up with a gap filling cyanoacrylate in the centre just for extra safety. I also held them in a press for 24 hours. The result seems rock solid, even if maybe a bit over the top, but then those lenses are worth a couple of dollars...
@Petrus That pic is showing an intermediate stage in the lens changing process at the brief moment in which both lens are connected. Of course before and after this moment the lenses are not joined in this way and the one with the customised rear cap is only 1cm longer (the height of a rear lens cap).
My bag is a normal shoulder bag and the lenses with customised rear caps easily fit into it.
I always do have a lens mounted to the body, so you normally keep the body without lens mounted?
@benporteous Pretty simple really --- I just glue two rear lens caps back to back (I use some cheap ones from Hong Kong, not the original Fuji ones). So to change lenses, I remove current lens and fit it straight to the back of the lens I wish to use now. With the same motion I uncap the new lens. Then place the old lens (now capped) into the bag and fit the new one.
Previously I found I was always struggling to get the rear lens caps on and off and to juggle the two lenses. Now it seems really easy and quick!
I mainly shoot primes, so swap lenses quite a bit. What works for me is: lens hoods on, no lens caps, Fujinon or B+W clear filters on the lenses. I also use customised rear lens caps to speed up lens changing.
I didn't intend to create any controversy with my post! Anyway, I have had the lens for a week and it is clearly a great piece. I use it as a wide angle lens and it is delivering lovely images. I was surprised how silent is the AF. Also the manual focus is really nice, it feels well damped and responsive. In terms of aperture rings, I'd say it has the second best feel, I prefer the heavier feel of the 60mm, although I prefer the feel of the aperture ring on the zoom to the 35mm (but that lens returns cracking images!).
Would I still sell it? At the moment yes, but I can see that it is trying to earn a permanent place in my kit...
Whilst their PR and communications may well be from the 1970's, I would like to put in a good word for the Australian digital camera technical service department whom I have found very knowledgable, enthusiastic and keen to discuss Fuji cameras with customers. Bravo!
No, you can fix S and still retain control of depth of field with an automatic exposure calculation by the camera.
To do this, fix both S and A, thus giving you control of depth of field. This leaves you with the remaining variable (ISO) being automatic (200 <-> 6400, so 5 stops, with the X-E1 also happy to use intermediate steps such as ISO 1250).
To me it is strange to call fixed A and fixed S "manual exposure" if ISO is on Auto. Manual exposure to me means fixed A, fixed S and fixed ISO. Now in the old film days, ISO was fixed, so there were only two automatic variables (excluding changing film!). With film, fixed A and fixed S meant manual exposure, but this is not true for digital because we have a third automatic variable.
So to me the two modes:
- fixed S, auto A, auto ISO
- fixed S, fixed A, auto ISO
may still be good ways to achieve the "Auto ISO with minimum shutter speed" feature in many circumstances (?).