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About K1W1_Mk2

  1. Do you have any sort of bracketing (iso, aperture, etc.) turned on? Usually the flash will not fire when bracketing is engaged.
  2. If sounds are turned OFF by putting the camera in silent mode the flash will not work. if you do not want sound leave the sound turned on and set to volume to zero. A trap for young players.
  3. X-M1 - sensor problem?

    make sure that your computer monitor is calibrated correctly.
  4. Note for Sunday 15 October Australian Easten Daylight saving time. My iOS 11.03 equipped iPad says that my Fuji app was updated “today” to include support for new WiFi and Bluetooth equipped digital cameras.
  5. iOS 11.03 has been out for about 48 hours only. I suspect the issue is some sort of incompatibility between the Fuji app and iOS11.03. I'm sure Fuji will do an app update sooner rather than later.
  6. X100F or XE3?

    Compared to the X100F there is very little in the size difference, a couple of mm here and there. If you compare the X-E3 to the previous XE cameras there is a noticeable difference. With such a small variation in the two cameras you really need to hold then yourself one after the other to see how they feel to you in your hands.
  7. X100F or XE3?

    I'll go the other route. Love my X100s. Never bonded with my X-T1. X-T2 and X-T20 are of no interest. There is something about the x100F styling that doesn't say "buy me" to me at least. X-E3 is the first Fuji camera for a while that has me really excited and at the bargain basement price they are selling for compared to X100F, X-Pro2 or X-T2 I will be in. I'm just waiting till the new rebates start hopefully next week to decide whether the body +23 f2 combo will be better than the body plus a separate 23 f2 with a rebate. Whilst nominally the X-T3 and X100s will be the same they are not really and I'm sure I will still get plenty of use from the X100s but equally the X-T3 has the new sensor, better focus acquisition and control (joystick) and I suspect the touch screen will be useful when I get used to it plus I can leverage my existing Fuji lenses if I want. Win win for me.
  8. Using an old flash

    If you set the flash to fully manual mode it should work on the X100.
  9. What is meant by "layers" in PS and GIMP?

    The Nik Suite (which is free) can also be used as stand alone products if you want. It is best as a plug in to LR or PS but it will work stand alone. The U point technology in the Nik suite makes selective editing very easy.
  10. The Internet has leveled prices out world wide. In many countries prices for luxury items like cameras were grossly inflated by local distributors but easy world wide shopping from places like Hong Kong has brought local prices down often to a level where HK based pricing is not any cheaper. Digital Rev also seem to have moved away from being a cheap and cheerful discounter over the last couple of years and there has been a noticeable increase in their price levels. I suspect that the realities of the costs of shipping worldwide and having to pay local warranty support from their own pockets may have contributed to that. There are still several HK based resellers who offer pretty good pricing but nothing like the savings you used to get 10 or even 5 years ago.
  11. puzzled

    Not a particularly good subject to show any sort of difference between RAW and jpeg on Fuji files if that is your intent. Try an image with heavy foliage and make sure the crops are identical.
  12. We can't see the photo in question so we have no hope of answering that. Maybe it's the lens itself Maybe its poor focus technique Maybe it's a camera setting issue Maybe the subject moved without knowing what lens you are using, seeing the photo and having access to the Exif data there is no way anybody can offer specific advise about a particular photo.
  13. Try some shots taken with the camera on a tripod and a very well defined subject. A bowl of bright flowers inside or something. The object is to elimate user induced camera shake and to make sure that the camera is focusing correctly. FWIW with adapted lenses I use focus peaking on my X-T1 and have no issues with focus or sharpness. I like focus peaking because it lets me see in advance what is in focus in the frame.
  14. In the US power is 60hz in most of the rest of the world it's 50hz. What that means is that halogen and fluro lights in particular pulse at either 60 or 50 times a second. The human eye does not see the pulses. If your shutter speed is an exact multiple of the hz rate say 1/60, 1/120 or 1/50, 1/100 sec then that is where these strange lines tend to appear.
  15. Whether the jpeg files are suitable is entirely a decision of the owner of the camera and the only way to decide is for the owner of the camera to actually take jpeg photos and decide. YouTube and forums cannot see what the camera owner sees and do not know what the camera owner wants to see. Get out and shoot jpegs and decide for yourself. The film is cheap.