Jump to content

dem

Members
  • Content count

    217
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About dem

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    UK

Recent Profile Visitors

988 profile views
  1. Set DR to 100% or any other value except AUTO Set ISO to a fixed value like ISO 200 Now the camera will constantly display both shutter speed and aperture in the P, S and A modes without the need to half-press the shutter button.
  2. This might be the problem. What lens are you using? For example, the 23 mm f/2 is rather soft at f/2 especially in close up shots. Also, how do you assess sharpness? There is a bit of a drop between 16Mpx and 24Mpx image quality if you view them on the computer screen at 100% zoom (as in pixel-to-pixel). I don't think different film simulations affect the image sharpness enough to notice any difference. Need to look elsewhere.
  3. Wildflowers

    I think it might be a little bit too sharp...
  4. Llandudno Pier

    Very nice. I have been to Llandudno a couple of times and it is always very busy. Bet you had to get up early to get this shot
  5. While looking through the viewfinder, press "Disp" button that toggles between all possible display modes - one of them is "standard display" that you are seeing now, but the one you need is called "custom".
  6. That's what Chipo called it. The thing next to the lens with three positions "M-C-S". If you set it to "C" or "S" but the camera thinks that it is set to "M", then we have a problem...
  7. If a factory reset does not cure it, there might be a mechanical problem with the "focus mode knob".
  8. I'm so old........

    ...and what is the reason why phone cams are about 28 mm rather than 35 mm?
  9. I'm so old........

    That's because 35 mm equivalent is a bit too narrow for a selfie with a friend...
  10. Handheld stacked macro

    I tried a couple of times do what you did - take ~10 handheld shots of a bug and then stack them in post. Never really got any descent results but I also found that taking single shots works much better than using burst mode. This is probably the EVF problem as it blacks out after every shot and by the end of the burst I would normally lose the bug from the frame Should go back to my shots and try blending the images manually. As you say, there is a lot of variation between the images because the leg/wing/antenna movement. This does not make it easy to focus stack.
  11. Unfortunately, the maximum shutter speed you can get away with is 1/125 sec in the USA and 1/100 sec in Europe: https://www.getdpi.com/forum/fuji/56729-fuji-x-electronic-shutter-test-banding.html https://happyphotodad.wordpress.com/2015/08/14/fuji-x-t1-electronic-shutter/ http://m43photo.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/gh3-electronic-shutter.html https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/52110426 It evidently works for other people. 1/15 sec (in fact it had improved to about 1/22 sec on the X-T2 and X-Pro2) is the time difference between when the very first and the very last line of pixels is read out. The exposure of each pixel is still defined by the shutter speed of 1/100 sec or whatever we set it to. The scanning time of 1/15 sec on the X-T1 or 1/22 sec on the X-T2 defines the number of dark bands in the image, respectively about 6.7 and 4.5 under 50 Hz, but it has no effect on how long each pixel is exposed to light. I think you might get colour banding only with multiple light sources that have different colours, e.g. neon lamps on the street, though I could not find any examples on Google.
  12. You can stop the banding under fluorescent light if you use a right shutter speed. In Europe, where the mains are 50 Hz, the light flickers every 1/100 sec, so if you use shutter speed 1/100, 1/50, 1/30, 1/25 you will catch a whole number of "flicks" and each line of pixels will be exposed evenly. If you are in the US, adjust accordingly: 1/125, 1/60, 1/40, 1/30.
  13. If JPEGs are brilliant, there should not be anything wrong with the camera or the lenses. I would look in the way the raw files are processed. Perhaps the software does not recognise the X-T2?
  14. Silkypix RAW : White Balance

    When I have several files that require the same treatment in Silkypix, I process one file first (WB, colour, but do not crop!). This creates a .spd file that stores all the settings. Then you can open a second file and go "File -> Load development parameters" and pick the .spd file from the first file to apply the same settings to the second file.
  15. The EXIF says: Aperture priority, f/2.0, shutter speed 1/120 s, ISO 12800. Is your minimum shutter speed set to 1/120 s? Check the ND filter is not on.
×