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dem

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  1. Question about RAW files

    Both JPEG and raw files store image data, but (as in previous posts) people normally refer to "raw files" not "raw images". That's a logical distinction because JPEG format tells computer software exactly what RGB-values to assign to every pixel on the monitor when the file is displayed. Raw files store the actual levels of light caught by each pixel and loads of metadata (including white balance, lens corrections etc...) that can help interpreting these data. How do you display that as an image?
  2. Something is not quite right in the first image. The boat "Girl Rachel" - one half of it is nice and sharp and the other is blurry. It is not depth of field, it is unlikely to be motion blur at 1/320s. It might be some water/grease on the front or back element, it might be a defect in the lens. I would check the lens is all clean, shine a torch through it, do some test shots of a brick wall and, if not happy, send it back.
  3. +1 It's a flash from another camera. Fluorescent lighting would have left several lines. Light pulses at double frequency: 120 or 100 times a second. No, that's exactly how to make them DISAPPEAR. The lines appear at high shutter speeds (1/200 sec for example). If you expose each pixel for a whole number of pulses, say in the US: 1 pulse 1/120 sec 2 pulses 1/60 sec 3 pulses 1/40 sec then there will be no lines as each pixel receives the same amount of light. That was true for the X-T1 and X-E2. In the X-T2 and X-Pro2 the read out speed for electronic shutter is about 1/25 sec. If someone catches a flash with the X-T2 while using ES with a shutter speed of 1/250 sec, this flash will leave a light band about 10% of the height of the image. This is exactly what happened here.
  4. Again, you have to choose in the camera menu which IS mode you want to use. If the lens has no OIS switch, the OIS will always behave the way you set it up in the camera menu. If the lens has got an OIS switch, the OIS will either behave the way you set it up in the camera (the switch is ON) or be disabled (the switch is OFF). Yes. Try turning IS off in the camera menu. Now flicking the switch on the lens ON or OFF is not going to change anything - the IS is always off.
  5. OIS in the name stands for "Optical Image Stabilisation". Both the XC 50-230 and the XF 55-200 have OIS. If you want to use OIS, you always have to enable it from the camera. From the X-T1 manual:
  6. Set DR to 100% or any other value except AUTO Set ISO to a fixed value like ISO 200 Now the camera will constantly display both shutter speed and aperture in the P, S and A modes without the need to half-press the shutter button.
  7. This might be the problem. What lens are you using? For example, the 23 mm f/2 is rather soft at f/2 especially in close up shots. Also, how do you assess sharpness? There is a bit of a drop between 16Mpx and 24Mpx image quality if you view them on the computer screen at 100% zoom (as in pixel-to-pixel). I don't think different film simulations affect the image sharpness enough to notice any difference. Need to look elsewhere.
  8. Wildflowers

    I think it might be a little bit too sharp...
  9. Llandudno Pier

    Very nice. I have been to Llandudno a couple of times and it is always very busy. Bet you had to get up early to get this shot
  10. While looking through the viewfinder, press "Disp" button that toggles between all possible display modes - one of them is "standard display" that you are seeing now, but the one you need is called "custom".
  11. That's what Chipo called it. The thing next to the lens with three positions "M-C-S". If you set it to "C" or "S" but the camera thinks that it is set to "M", then we have a problem...
  12. If a factory reset does not cure it, there might be a mechanical problem with the "focus mode knob".
  13. I'm so old........

    ...and what is the reason why phone cams are about 28 mm rather than 35 mm?
  14. I'm so old........

    That's because 35 mm equivalent is a bit too narrow for a selfie with a friend...
  15. Handheld stacked macro

    I tried a couple of times do what you did - take ~10 handheld shots of a bug and then stack them in post. Never really got any descent results but I also found that taking single shots works much better than using burst mode. This is probably the EVF problem as it blacks out after every shot and by the end of the burst I would normally lose the bug from the frame Should go back to my shots and try blending the images manually. As you say, there is a lot of variation between the images because the leg/wing/antenna movement. This does not make it easy to focus stack.
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