Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Today
  2. ChrisPoole

    X100F with 15-45mm?

    Thank you Vic. Fascinating. I'm most grateful for the insights.
  3. Yesterday
  4. veejaycee

    X100F with 15-45mm?

    The 14mm is my most used prime. Since you replied I can now upload another image. This is the first frame from the same walkabout as those previously shown. The difference is, this was taken in normal fashion at eye height with a the 23mm f1,4. Camera up, click, camera down - but look how quickly the naturalness has gone and an instant pose been adopted. That was when I put the 14mm on and it's pretty much all I use now for street apart from sometimes going to the other extreme of 60mm or 90mm for a close up or across street capture..
  5. veejaycee

    Problem with Raf and PS6

    Neither DNG or Raw lock in the conversion. Either file type which has been edited in LR can always be re-opened and readjusted. Likewise if either are processed in ACR. However, LR will not recognise ACR conversions and ACR will not recognise LR conversions. If you open an LR processed raw or dng in ACR it will use the unprocessed file and similarly, an ACR processed file opened in LR will open as a non processed file. Memory is ridiculously cheap nowadays. I retain raw, dng, tiff and jpg copies of my keepers. I am thinking of thinning out my older files though simply to keep track more easily and I'm getting more ruthless with anything sub par.
  6. farrell

    X100F with 15-45mm?

    Thanks for your response;as you have said, cropping works for anything but bad verticals. I have used the included software to fix my occasional failures in that exact area. I have seen that by all accounts the 14 is killer-sharp but dismissed it as a crazy-wide. I am re-thinking it for the purpose you described.
  7. veejaycee

    X100F with 15-45mm?

    I shoot blind from the hip as described. It's a 14mm lens so usually room to crop. The one "must" is to keep the camera back as perpendicular as possible - not leaning back or forward. maybe I'm lucky but the camera settles nicely into this position and just a little practice steadying the camera with thumb on shutter button and fingers underneath will make this happen. It doesn't matter if the camera tilts left or right, there's always space to straighten and crop. I'm quite close when I shoot these. The 14mm has a special quality that gives real depth to an image.
  8. I convert to dng using X Transformer - but after final editing I delete the dng (which is over twice the size of the RAF file) If I ever wanted to re-edit - converting to dng would only take a moment. I do save the RAF of course. That way I don't take the chance of locking in a conversion that may improve yet further in the future
  9. farrell

    X100F with 15-45mm?

    The verticals in the first image demonstrate a perfectly level camera;do you use a hot shoe bubble level for hipshooting or just eyeball it?
  10. veejaycee

    X100F with 15-45mm?

    Hi Chris, I shoot aperture priority usually setting between f4 and f8 and set the distance to the hyperfocal by turning the focus ring so the f4 or f8 or whatever is opposite the inf mark. With 14mm this gives me sharpness from my feet (almost) to inf but I will accept less than inf at larger apertures. The X-Pro is slung from left shoulder across the body on a long strap to hang naturally perpendicular in the hollow of my right hip so I can casually rest my right hand as if steadying the camera but with thumb on the shutter. Shooting angle is about 45° to the direction my body is facing as I casually look around- I prefer to have no re-action to my taking a picture, The clutched manual focus with distance and DoF markings are invaluable on the 14mm 16mm and 23mm f1.4 for this style of shooting to eliminate guesswork but a DoF chart will help for other Fuji lenses. I process in standalone LR 6 and standalone PS CC 2015 using Nik filters. In LR I always begin with the default Adobe Standard sim which gives me the flatest raw for basic exposure and tone. I don't sharpen in or reduce noise in LR. I export to PS and use Nik colour FX Tonal Contrast filter. This is what gives the depth to folds in clothing and a 3D look to the image. You can use this before or after silver FX. In SFX fine tune the tones using the colour sliders and increase/decrease black/white. I use a sepia tone reduced to around 25% or whatever is needed to reproduce as near as I can, the warm black tones of an old fibre-based print. Finally I either add a vignette or burn-in via control points to emphasise the subject. On the previous image above I think I burned L/R edges and burned in lower R and mid left. Below just a light vignette in the corners. I sharpen using the high pass filter.
  11. ChrisPoole

    X100F with 15-45mm?

    I like this image Vic. Could you add a brief word about exposure and processing info?
  12. Last week
  13. veejaycee

    Large Indicators mode

    Yep, both the XT20 and XT2 got the large icons feture. A boon for oldies like me!
  14. veejaycee

    X100F with 15-45mm?

    I just tried my 16-55mm f2.8 on my X-Pro1 for the first (and only) time. I was surprised that the frame lines disappeared at 17mm but there was still plenty of space between the lines and the edge of the OVF when they disappeared. The X-Pro1 is my street camera and the lens mostly fitted to it is the 14mm f2.8 which is otherwise used only on my IR converted X-E1. I'm quite sure that 14mm is only barely out of the OVF but this just gives me extra leeway for framing at eye level but in truth I mostly use this setup to shoot blind from the hip so I'm ready to crop.
  15. veejaycee

    X100F with 15-45mm?

    That would be an X-Pro2 or X-E3. 😀 Also, it would only impact sales of the X100F and X70 and their add-on lenses. This post has made me think though - I don't know about others but if I use a std zoom 15-45, 16-50, 18-55 or my fave 16-55 f2.8 - ost of the pictures I take will be at either end of the zoom. Makes me wonder if an alternative would be a fixed lens with (say) 16mm - 35mm -70mm focal lengths or similar. Of course, this also would impact sales of other models and lenses.
  16. NickC42

    X100F with 15-45mm?

    The optical viewfinder, the main differentiator for the X100 line, would be useless. So might as well buy an XE3 with the 15-45 lens.
  17. If Fuji released an X100F with the 15-45mm zoom insteard of the 23mm lens would it sell? The lens is really compact so I am sure a version could be made for the X100 but it is a slow lens so I am not sure people would pay the money.
  18. I didn't see any comments about this. Firmware version 2.10 has a large indicators mode. I've got the exposure compensation scale on the left, and shutter, aperature, and iso on the bottom. Not only are the indicators much easier to see, but the viewfinder looks cleaner (I turned off a bunch of icons). I have the mode assigned to a function button, so I can see the normal display with the focus/depth of field bar, if I get anxious about focus.
  19. Mikese19

    Abu Dhabi Grand Mosque

    Main entrance

    © Copyright Mike Smith May 2018

  20. veejaycee

    XT-2 and Lightroom

    I bought Thomas' ebook and sharpening presets for LR about 18 months ago with IXT Beta. I don't actually use any of the presets though. I run my files through IXT with no LR NR or and no LR sharpening. I then process the DNGs as usual in LR 6 standalone and export tiffs to PS CC 2015 standalone where I size and sharpen using the high pass filter at lowest settings (0.3) and that is all the sharpening I need from the 24mp sensor. The main thing (IMO) is not to sharpen in LR but use one's chosen sharpening method on a tiff copy. Smart sharpen and Nik output sharpener are quite good but keep the settings low.
  21. I had the same experience recently. Also found out (to my embarrassment) that the front switch had gone to "c" when up or down in my bag, hehe.
  22. Franky2step

    XT-2 and Lightroom

    seriously good info and very inexpensive tutorial for Iridient Transformer + LR processing https://blog.thomasfitzgeraldphotography.com/fuji-x-series/ http://www.thomasfitzgeraldbooks.com/books-1/2017/5/8/processing-fuji-x-trans-files-with-iridient-x-transformer-and-lightroom and no, I do not work for TF nor do I know the man.
  23. Point taken I was thinking of older designs.
  24. Zaltin

    X-H1 card slot problems

    Hi everyone! I've got this problem with my X-H1 constantly changing card slots. I've set 1 to photo and 2 for video. Dozens of times now. But, every so often when I come back from a shoot, all my pics are on card slot 2 just the same (almost never shoot video anyway). Not a life-changing problem, but super irritating just the same. Anyone else experienced this? Remedy, something I might be doing wrong? Cheers, O.
  25. MisterR

    XT-2 and Lightroom

    I usually use lightroom for this photo editing. This http://fixthephoto.com/free-lightroom-presets-for-portraits makes it possible to make original and beautiful manipulations with the photo!
  26. Why do you suggest that? because of longer focus throw? modern mirrorless lenses are often internally focusing, to reduce the mass of the focus group to work better with low inertia CDAF systems. therefore I don't know if longer focal lengths have a greater focus throw or not.
  27. And here I thought you were asking us to try and identify the insect. :) Glad that you got it worked out with Fuji.
  28. Focusing distance and aperture would determine how diffuse the insect would appear if at all. Inasmuch as 23mm is fairly short for APS-C, it would likely appear as a diffuse blob, less diffuse at smaller apertures.
  1. Load more activity


  • Recommended Discussions

×