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  2. That would be very unusual here, least of all free. I was surprised to see B&H offering free next day delivery in US while Adorama did not. That was the deal-maker for me; even being aware of B&H's reputation I had never bought from them before. Adorama may not count on being my "vendor of record" anymore.
  3. Pretty good. Mind you, the last 3 late afternoons I've ordered stuff and it's all arrived before 11am the next morning.
  4. Ordered 9:30 am 3/20;received 1:50 pm 3/21
  5. The subject of my topic was free next-day shipping, not brand politics.
  6. is this still for sale? Also, is there a lens with it?
  7. Wash your mouth out! 😀 Is the Z any good?
  8. I didn't say the name because it's not Fuji. It is a 24-70mm Nikon f/4 for Z. I have the 50/1.8. Fedex tracking calls for delivery by 3 pm tomorrow Mar 21.
  9. If you mainly shoot posed portraiture and landscape, then it is a good move. If you shoot street, action, PJ, sport, wildlife, you might miss your XT2. Here is the lens line up: http://www.fujifilm.com/products/digital_cameras/gfx/roadmap/index.html Not many options... I would miss 28 mm and 135 mm equivalent primes, ala XF18 and XF90 for the X-T2.
  10. Let us know what you ordered - and if it comes.
  11. Adorama and B&H Photo have pretty much driven other American dealers into relative obscurity. Checking both for deals on a $1,000 US item. I saw that B&H offered free next day delivery in the US for that lens product line only. I ordered the item and confirmation estimated delivery as tomorrow by close of business.
  12. I'm looking at trading in my XT2 for the GFX50R and am wondering about the lens lineup as I dig deeper into the Fuji system. I definitely want the GF63 mm, may be it is a pretty good kit lens.Thanks in advance for your help.
  13. Night and day in Kyushu Japan
  14. Earlier
  15. 1.) You should be able to pick what you want to appear in the evf and on the rear screen separately. The display back button (lower back of cam) allows you to choose from a few variations of evf/screen setup. 2.) I don't believe you can swap the 2 controls for that purpose. 3.) In the main menu you have (User settings?) an option for MY menu. This is where you can save your most used options. 4.) There are several setup guides and videos - here's one (I haven't watched it). 5.) If you shoot raw, you can shoot at fixed DR 100% and control it in your editor. If you only shoot jpg, try setting auto. At 100% is base. If you want to shoot at 200% you need to set an ISO of 400 or more. If you want to shoot at 400% you need a min ISO of 800. So maybe try auto ISO and auto DR. Vic
  16. Hello Rec'd my X-T3 today and have been slowly working throught the menu to get things how I like them ! I've got a few questions and would be grateful if you could answer them !? Firstly - after taking an image I like to view it in the viewfinder rather than the rear monitor - however, the image doesn't pop up into the viewfinder unless I press the playback button on the rear of the camera - is it possible to acheive this automatically ? 2 - When I am looking at am image I may wish to check the focus - I know I can press in the rear command dial and turn this to zoom out - can I change it so that the front dial does this ? 3 - When going in and out of the menu it doesn't take you back to the last option you were looking at so you have to scroll through all the menus again - can this be changed ?! Finally, is there a website that does a really good walkthrough of all the settings ? In particular I don't really understand the DRO settings and the D range priority settings ? thanks if you got this far and even more thanks if you can provide an answer !
  17. I have an X-T1 body and vertical grip for sale. Excellent ++ condition. I have all boxes and documentation for both. Asking $625.00 USD or best offer. Buyer pays shipping. I am looking to upgrade to an X-T2 or X-T3 ASAP so if you are interested, please let me know. Payment via Pay Pal is preferred. Email address is ffavale@mac.com.
  18. I don't know about the 100-400mm but I'll try it soon - I don't have the 50-140mm. Known good lenses 14mm f2.8 (the absolute best for IR to f8). 23mm and 35mm f1.4s are good to about f5.6 or a little less. 16mm f1.4 is good to f8. 60mm f2.4 is no good at any aperture likewise the 18-55 zoom. The 55-200mm zoom is excellent at all apertures and focal lengths as is the 90mm f2. 16-55 works for me too although I don't have a lens filter to fit that lens, the basic conversion (580nm) shows it to work well (whether a lens filter might interfere with the light path to give a hot spot is another thing). I mostly use a Hoya R72 (720nm) on my lenses and sometimes 850nm (B&W). My favourite lenses for infrared are 14mm f2.8 and 55-200mm. I've read that 10-24 is not good. I have read that the f2 Chrons are ok for hotspots and I'm hoping the new 16mm f2.8 will work although I'm happy with the 14mm and cropping if necessary. I don't shoot IR with much else than the 14mm and the 55-200mm.
  19. I've tried all of my suite of X series lenses except the 100-400 and the 50-140. So that's the 35mm, 60mm, 16-55 and 10-24. I think I'm finding the last-named the one where hotspots appear less frequently than the others. But none are hot-spot free. Which do you find works for you Vic? Sorry, I've taken this thread a bit off topic. Regards Chris
  20. Sunrise in Taiwan
  21. I think I understand you - and thank you for all the details you provided. When using a non-Fuji lens set shoot without lens to ON. You can leave this set. Also you can leave any non Fuji lens focus length entered. The camera recognises when a Fuji lens is fitted and will override to normal Fuji auto settings. I think that's what you have done - but just to be sure. 😀 I believe you need to clean the lens and camera contacts - use something like a pencil eraser but keep the lens and the camera facing down when you do this. Otherwise it may be an electrical problem elsewhere in the camera. If it is out of warranty you should contact your local Fuji repair center for a quote before repair. They usually have an idea of the cause. Best of luck. Vic
  22. Excellent work David? Wonderful control of colour and contrast with a really theatrical feel.
  23. Hi Melissa, you don't say which camera you use but it seems you may have perhaps set an advanced mode - pano, bracketting, double exposure etc. Check under the ISO dial to make sure it's set to "S" single. If necessary, do a factory reset (user menu) but maybe take a note of what settings you have so you can re-input them. Factory reset puts the camera back in the new camera state.
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