Trouble focusing with a non-Fuji lens on an X-T10

[jezo]

Transiting to Fuji XT10 from Nikon , I am trying to use Nikon 60mm f2.8 D AF Micro Nikkor with an adapter, but have issues focusing. Even in a non-macro situation (portraits), even with aperture stopped down to, say 5.6 or 8 shots come out downright bad. My only guidance is peaking outline on the screen and I am wondering how reliable it is. Also, I am not totally sure 60mm is the figure I need to put into the non-native lens section of the camera setup. Is this automatically corrected for the adapter connecting the lens to the camera or is there another formula? I also see there're a few more parameters to input manually, but am not sure they can influence sharpness. Is there anything I am missing?

[veejaycee]

The lens FL you input is for exif info only. It has no effect whatsoever on the picture taking and in fact may be left entered- likewise the "Shoot without lens" setting because the camera will know as soon as a Fuji lens is fitted and will over ride both settings.

I personally prefer standard magnified view rather than peaking. Assuming the lens was good on a Nikon camera any focus problems must down to user error. Bear in mind at 1:1 macro distance you may need to focus stack to get sharpness over the entire subject.

I'm assuming you are using a tripod and not handholding. You may find it necessary to use a mag slider to focus exactly - especially for focus stacking.

Is the the fit - body to adapter and adapter to lens tight in both cases. There is no "room" - excuse the pun - for slackness in macro photography.

Perhaps you could post one of the offending pictures along with the exif info

[K1W1_Mk2]

Try some shots taken with the camera on a tripod and a very well defined subject. A bowl of bright flowers inside or something. The object is to elimate user induced camera shake and to make sure that the camera is focusing correctly. FWIW with adapted lenses I use focus peaking on my X-T1 and have no issues with focus or sharpness. I like focus peaking because it lets me see in advance what is in focus in the frame.

[jezo]

As I said, the issue is not limited to macro and I would even say, macro is less of a problem, because I know I need to stabilise and because the stuff I shoot (the proverbial flower) is normally in one plane. But why would a portrait of someone standing two or three metres away lack definition despite peaking popping up in eyes/hair area - that's what throws me.

[K1W1_Mk2]

We can't see the photo in question so we have no hope of answering that.

Maybe it's the lens itself 

Maybe its poor focus technique 

Maybe it's a camera setting issue

Maybe the subject moved

without knowing what lens you are using, seeing the photo and having access to the Exif data there is no way anybody can offer specific advise about a particular photo.

 

[jezo]

On 9/9/2017 at 1:46 AM, K1W1_Mk2 said:

We can't see the photo in question so we have no hope of answering that.

Maybe it's the lens itself 

Maybe its poor focus technique 

Maybe it's a camera setting issue

Maybe the subject moved

without knowing what lens you are using, seeing the photo and having access to the Exif data there is no way anybody can offer specific advise about a particular photo.

 

You can read the original post for the starters to see the lens make. Lens itself is right, tested on my Nikon. Focusing technique you can elaborate on, camera setting issue in full manual seems to be less relevant, but I'd take some elaboration on that too. Subject move can be excluded - one has to be an idiot to offer a question having not checked that.

[veejaycee]

2 hours ago, jezo said:

You can read the original post for the starters to see the lens make. Lens itself is right, tested on my Nikon. Focusing technique you can elaborate on, camera setting issue in full manual seems to be less relevant, but I'd take some elaboration on that too. Subject move can be excluded - one has to be an idiot to offer a question having not checked that.

"one has to be an idiot to offer a question having not checked that"

You'd be surprised how many idiots there are and we don't know you. Always provide a picture with full exif if possible. You are not an idiot but even so you did not read the manual enough to know the FL input is for exif only.

How sure are you that you hit focus properly - is the viewfinder image clear and sharp? It is not unknown for users to forget to set the viewfinder dioptre to suit their eyesight (left side of viewfinder). Anyway, you should always include an image and full exif as so often the answer is there and if not it rules our some possible problems.

[jezo]

Okay, here's a fragment of one of the recent shots where peaking outline seemed to indicate all proper focus, but reality is less sharp. This is a re-saved, non-resized fragment of the image as I can't upload the full large file. I have tried focusing using split bw-colour image, not sure if this gives me a more accurate picture. Enlarging part of picture works only for high-contrast detail at low ISO, otherwise everything seems to be uniform and noisy. I have corrected the diopter setting and all viewfinder info comes out crisp and sharp.

[veejaycee]

A very quick sharpen. Without exif info it's still hard to know the problem. There are so many possibilities from personal camera technique to shutter speed to in-camera settings and post processing. Ideally use a tripod and remote release/timer to check for lens sharpness and use a flat-ish target.