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If Fuji released an X100F with the 15-45mm zoom insteard of the 23mm lens would it sell? The lens is really compact so I am sure a version could be made for the X100 but it is a slow lens so I am not sure people would pay the money.

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The optical viewfinder, the main differentiator for the X100 line, would be useless. So might as well buy an XE3 with the 15-45 lens.

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That would be an X-Pro2 or X-E3. ? Also, it would only impact sales of the X100F and X70 and their add-on lenses.

This post has made me think though - I don't know about others but if I use a std zoom 15-45, 16-50, 18-55 or my fave 16-55 f2.8 - ost of the pictures I take will be at either end of the zoom. Makes me wonder if an alternative would be a fixed lens with (say) 16mm - 35mm -70mm focal lengths or similar. Of course, this also would impact sales of other models and lenses.

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10 minutes ago, NickC42 said:

The optical viewfinder, the main differentiator for the X100 line, would be useless. So might as well buy an XE3 with the 15-45 lens.

I just tried my 16-55mm f2.8 on my X-Pro1 for the first (and only) time. I was surprised that the frame lines disappeared at 17mm but there was still plenty of space between the lines and the edge of the OVF when they disappeared. The X-Pro1 is my street camera and the lens mostly fitted to it is the 14mm f2.8 which is otherwise used only on my IR converted X-E1. I'm quite sure that 14mm is only barely out of the OVF but this just gives me extra leeway for framing at eye level but in truth I mostly use this setup to shoot blind from the hip so I'm ready to crop.

 

_XP17273bws.jpg

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Hi Chris, I shoot aperture priority usually setting between f4 and f8 and set the distance to the hyperfocal by turning the focus ring so the f4 or f8 or whatever is opposite the inf mark. With 14mm this gives me sharpness from my feet (almost) to inf but I will accept less than inf at larger apertures. The X-Pro is slung from left shoulder across the body on a long strap to hang naturally perpendicular in the hollow of my right hip so I can casually rest my right hand as if steadying the camera but with thumb on the shutter. Shooting angle is about 45° to the direction my body is facing as I casually look around- I prefer to have no re-action to my taking a picture, The clutched manual focus with distance and DoF markings are invaluable on the 14mm 16mm and 23mm f1.4 for this style of shooting to eliminate guesswork but a DoF chart will help for other Fuji lenses.

I process in standalone LR 6 and standalone PS CC 2015 using Nik filters. In LR I always begin with the default Adobe Standard sim which gives me the flatest raw for basic exposure and tone. I don't sharpen in or reduce noise in LR. I export to PS and use Nik colour FX Tonal Contrast filter. This is what gives the depth to folds in clothing and a 3D look to the image. You can use this before or after silver FX. In SFX fine tune the tones using the colour sliders and increase/decrease black/white. I use a sepia tone reduced to around 25% or whatever is needed to reproduce as near as I can, the warm black tones of an old fibre-based print. Finally I either add a vignette or burn-in via control points to emphasise the subject. On the previous image above I think I burned L/R edges and burned in lower R and mid left.  Below just a light vignette in the corners. I sharpen using the high pass filter.

_XP17240bwsHSN.jpg

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On 5/21/2018 at 7:04 AM, veejaycee said:

I just tried my 16-55mm f2.8 on my X-Pro1 for the first (and only) time. I was surprised that the frame lines disappeared at 17mm but there was still plenty of space between the lines and the edge of the OVF when they disappeared. The X-Pro1 is my street camera and the lens mostly fitted to it is the 14mm f2.8 which is otherwise used only on my IR converted X-E1. I'm quite sure that 14mm is only barely out of the OVF but this just gives me extra leeway for framing at eye level but in truth I mostly use this setup to shoot blind from the hip so I'm ready to crop.

 

_XP17273bws.jpg

The verticals in the first image demonstrate a perfectly level camera;do you use a hot shoe bubble 

level for hipshooting or just eyeball it?

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 I shoot blind from the hip as described. It's a 14mm lens so usually room to crop. The one "must" is to keep the camera back as perpendicular as possible - not leaning back or forward. maybe I'm lucky but the camera settles nicely into this position and just a little practice steadying the camera with thumb on shutter button and fingers underneath will make this happen. It doesn't matter if the camera tilts left or right, there's always space to straighten and crop. I'm quite close when I shoot these. The 14mm has a special quality that gives real depth to an image.

_XP17276bws.jpg

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Thanks for your response;as you have said, cropping works for anything but bad verticals.

I have used the included software to fix my occasional failures in that exact area.

I have seen that by all accounts the 14 is killer-sharp but dismissed it as a crazy-wide.

I am re-thinking it for the purpose you described. 

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The 14mm is my most used prime. Since you replied I can now upload another image. This is the first frame from the same walkabout as those previously shown. The difference is, this was taken in normal fashion at eye height with a the 23mm f1,4. Camera up, click, camera down - but look how quickly the naturalness has gone and an instant pose been adopted. That was when I put the 14mm on and it's pretty much all I use now for street apart from sometimes going to the other extreme of 60mm or 90mm for a close up or across street capture..

_XP17212bws.jpg

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13 hours ago, veejaycee said:

The 14mm is my most used prime. Since you replied I can now upload another image. This is the first frame from the same walkabout as those previously shown. The difference is, this was taken in normal fashion at eye height with a the 23mm f1,4. Camera up, click, camera down - but look how quickly the naturalness has gone and an instant pose been adopted. That was when I put the 14mm on and it's pretty much all I use now for street apart from sometimes going to the other extreme of 60mm or 90mm for a close up or across street capture..

_XP17212bws.jpg

Thanks again;looks like I'm about to spend some more money.

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On 5/21/2018 at 5:46 PM, Paul Reading said:

If Fuji released an X100F with the 15-45mm zoom insteard of the 23mm lens would it sell? 

IMO no not as a X100. It is not what a X100 series camera is all about and to suggest putting a zoom on a X100 means that the whole point of the X100 has been missed.

What the proposed camera would be is the replacement for the late and missed X10/20/30 series with a APS-C sensor but the zoom range would not be enough to make buyers of that sort of camera interested.

On 5/21/2018 at 8:57 PM, NickC42 said:

The optical viewfinder, the main differentiator for the X100 line, would be useless. 

Why? The optical viewfinder on the X10 zoomed as the lens zoomed.

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