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I've seen hundreds of stunning panorama photographs taken using the Fuji X100's 'Motion Panorama' drive mode, I thought it would be helpful to gather tips and advice from users on how to successfully use this feature.

My experience with shooting panoramas in bright sunlight has shown that very fast shutter speeds can produce banding.

What techniques have you found to produce clean panoramas?

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Hi Christopher,

Two tips from me, is to try and keep the arrow level with the yellow line when you are rotating the camera. Try not to rotate the camera too fast as this will cause the arrow and the yellow line to be slightly lagged.

Additionally, I do find that at 120 degree if you rotate the camera fast enough(not too fast that the camera could not operate) may allow you to capture the scene slightly wider but you may be running the risk of getting the picture, unless you are using a tripod.

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My tips

- Tripod. Couldn't emphasize this more. Even a cheap one is better than nothing and no, our body can't do it smoothly. I tried and failed miserably.

- I set the ISO at 4000 when at night because when we sweep with low ISO, the camera will lag badly and that causes streaks.

- Aperture at F2 or F2.8. I leave the shutter at A.

- For less distortion, sweep portrait orientation and at 180 degrees so that you can do a full pano.

- Avoid changing landscape as much as possible like water ripples, moving cars and boats, etc.

5852042339_174b7c06a5_b.jpg

View From the Singapore Flyer Sunset.

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I like the idea of putting the X-E2 in vertical position and doing a panorama to achieve a larger file for large size printing. I have heard that moving the camera parallel to the scene (lateral movement) might produce the shots I want, are there any charts anywhere showing typical data per a lens the distance a camera would have to travel to create 2x3 proportions or 6x9 or ... ?

I ask this as I will expect to use a tripod and fashion a "travel bar" for the Fuji to sit on and be moved across. The length of the bar is what is of interest to me.

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Panoramas are so easy these days.

This is literally a one click pano in Photoshop CC. Seven X1oos hand held images shot from bottom to top in landscape orientation, Aperture priority, auto iso, jpeg. There is no pp other than the merge. Photoshop CC did the whole thing with one click.

Sherbrooke Forest Panorama uncropped

A simple crop and you end up with

Sherbooke Forest Panorama

As long as you allow 25%-30% overlap software these days can stitch virtually anything.

I never use the in camera pano feature on the X100s it's just too flakey and virtually always for me at least has bad banding in the resulting image. being able to do the stitch with a single click works better for me.

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Thanks for the comments. The picture isn't worth anything IMO it doesn't convey what I wanted it to but its handy for reference purposes for threads like this. The tree is actually sloping down into a gully at about 45 degrees.

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I took my X-E1 to the beach recently on holidays. The panoramas which result are good enough I think.

I've started by commencing the panorama from the right hand (often where the focus of the picture is located), and finishing at the left because it for me a more natural sweeping movement than from left to right.

S Tree

The tree was done from the bottom up to the top as the bottom position of the tree to the surrounding area was more critical. I normally us the camera in the portrait position as it gives more area.

One feature I like about the X-E1 with the 18-55 zoom on is that you can do a panorama at any setting on the zoom lens. So here is two panoramas with the zoom at different lengths.

S Panorama Lorne 1

I can't remember whether the two of the sea scene are from the exact platform or whether I took one first and then went to a slightly lower platform (about 8ft or 2.4 m) for the second. In any case, the comparison can be made.

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What was the shutter speed and aperture settings on the camera?

I get the impression that banding occurs when the shutter speed is too slow and the person moves the camera too slowly in addition to the slow shutter speed. 

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12 hours ago, LKoster said:

I have a problem with vertical bars on my picture, anyone can help me?

HBPanorama-1.jpg

Is this a stitched picture made from several different frames? If so, you should set everything to manual exposure and manual focus otherwise you'll have different exposures and different focus distances overlapping.

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