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JMA

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  1. JMA

    X-Pro2 Shutter Delay

    @veejaycee will try with setting priority to release, I already tried all your other suggestions and did not worked for my intentions. Strange its that even in manual focus (camera does not have spend time focusing) it lags, it opens and closes the diaphragm every single time shutter is pressed and it does not do it quickly. Thank you
  2. When in single shot mode, or focus locked with back button or manual focus, I always been able to shoot the X-T2 as fast as I could stab the shutter button repeatedly. Several shots per second, no problem.X-Pro2 doesn't behave like that. In the same escenario, same settings and lens, the camera makes a pronounced pause after every shot. It's shooting only on every second or third shutter button stab, approximately. It lags even at the first shot in manual focus.I've learned that Imaging Resource calls the phenomenon "early shutter penalty". Their X-Pro2 review found that the camera suffers from it. On burst mode it doesn't pause, after a few tests I realized its because for every shot in single shot mode, it opens aperture to its largest, making f5.6-f16 the slowest, and f2-2.8 the fastest. I do a lot of street or documentary work and I need to shot like this from time to time. Burst mode doesn't work as I do end with a lot of almost identical shots. Is there a configuration to fix this? or is just how the camera firmware behaves??
  3. Indeed what you mention is my approach when traveling. I was thinking on getting the 16-55 to pair it with the 55-200 on 2 bodies, as I am starting to get tired of changing lenses all the time with primes. Even that I don't shot at 1.4 a lot, I wasn't sure about it. Now it makes more sense as you explained. Thanks @artuk for taking the time to provide your insights
  4. @artuk what will be your recommended kit for classic travel photography? I always struggle selecting the gear for each trip. I want it to be as simple as possible but not limiting. I had traveled with just x100 or with 3 cameras, tripod and 5 lenses and always use all I bring. I enjoy carrying less, but I prioritize getting better pictures. Your comment (some.people travel and find subjects that suit a 35mm Equivalent lens) made me think if, for the sake of practicality, our gear selection ends dictating the shots we get?
  5. JMA

    XF35mmF2 Light Loss

    @farrell Thanks! after your suggestion, I did see the lens has some play when mounting, so cleaned the contacts and tightened the lens when mounting it and seems the issue is not appearing anymore, not sure if due this action or that I started to use the lens (it was stored for about 1 month)
  6. JMA

    XF35mmF2 Light Loss

    I was able to reproduce the issue now, does not seem to be stuck blades. If I use it between f2 and f5.6 it works as normal, it opens or closes..... If I go past f8 and then go back to f2, blades open only from f8-f16 (at f2 it opens at the same size as f8, and f16 as f16) It wont go back to fully open the blades until I unmount the lens and mount it again (turn the camera of does not work). Seems to me that unmounting the lens resets or reboots it and then it works again.
  7. JMA

    XF35mmF2 Light Loss

    thanks, but its out of warranty, bought it a couple of years ago
  8. JMA

    XF35mmF2 Light Loss

    Seems that is the case, at f2 it was stuck somewhere in the middle, after several actuations it fully opened. Now its working ok, but I guess will fail again eventually right?
  9. I'm consistently getting 3 stop darker exposures with my 35mm f2, regardless camera used or aperture setting, vs all my other fuji lenses, all being equal. Other way to see it is that I get ISO 3200 on the 35mm f2 vs ISO 400 to 640 on 7 different fuji lenses, same composition, same lighting, same speed, same aperture, same camera. I understand light transmission could be different from lens to lens, but 3 stops? Is this normal for this lens or its defective? Thanks
  10. I do not travel or shot weddings carrying a computer. I know the math, I do shoot normally 2-6K on travels, 1-3K on weddings. Just want to know if its safe to use single 128 instead of 4x32 so I can simplify. Right now I carry 384GB (with 384GB backup) and that is 12x32 and 3x128 If I switch to128's I will need only 6 cards..... or maybe 6x64 + 3x128 (backup) I will need only 9. Some people swear not to use large cards and use several small ones instead to avoid risking the data all at once (in case of corrupt card, stolen/lost card) but its getting complicated to manage 15 SD cards per travel. Also changing cards can be problematic while traveling.
  11. I normally shoot RAW+JPG and use the backup functionality of X-Pro2/X-T2 to have some peace of mind when traveling or shooting weddings. I currently have 4x32GB backed up to a 128GB card per camera, but card management had became an issue. I was thinking in switching to a 128GB backed to another 128GB per camera, since its already backing up, I do not see a problem.... but what do you think? would I risk too much with this? Thanks
  12. Sure, I do not have a tripod nor filters, I do have the 14, 16, 23, 56 and plan to get the 55-200. For the bags I have a small domke as I'm mostly street/documentary photographer. I was thinking to carry a backpack with the 14 or the 16 (heard the 16 is not good for astro), the 23 and the 55-200, a tripod/ball head, panorama nodal rail and a set of filters. I'm struggling with the tons of options available specially on the tripod/ball head and type/size of filters. Thanks!
  13. I want to start doing more serious landscape stuff, like long exposure, panoramas, light painting, star trails, etc. but have been struggling on the gear needed. I'm trying to build the simplest and lightest but capable landscape kit. Currently have X-T2 and X-Pro2 and in my next trip I plan to use both as it may snow and will be difficult to change lenses. Would you mind giving your advice on what tripod, lenses, filters, bags and accessories would help me to get better landscape pictures? (technically speaking, i.e. not blurred, good colors, etc. I know I should provide the eye ) Thanks in advance!
  14. update on my own experience. I have been using the original Fuji NP-W126S that came with the camera as well as XT1 NP-W126 and 3 Watson for 4 months now on my XT2. 2 of the 3 watson's swelled by a tiny amount, one just barely fits in the camera, so I stopped using them. (same happened to a friend on wasabis, 3 of 12 swelled) NP-W126 (non S) was working good until I tried to record a short 4k Video clip, it died in 3 seconds, screen got fully red. I tried with another battery and XT2 worked correctly. Now NP-W126 battery does not charge at all. NP-W126S still works as new, and had always gave me more shots than other batteries. On XT1 I never had an issue with any of the batteries so my conclusion is that the non-S batteries (fuji or third party) are not capable to feed the high power needs of XT2 in the long run. hopefully third party companies make soon an S version, because fujis are insanely expensive.
  15. Thanks @Christopher I'm more like you, not enough critical work, but when I do is weddings or travel and I definitely do not want to have problems in either. Last weeding I was using XT2+XT1 without grips, both on performance mode and mixed watsons with fujis, no problems, no more or less overheating to make a difference in either body. The only thing I could note is that XT2 eats more power, almost twice as XT1, but that happens with fujis also....But since is the only test I have, I can not know for sure.... other thing that I noticed is the heat is not produced on the battery, is more like on oposite side near the LCD Strangely, I had battery swelling on 3 fuji X100s NP-95 batteries, not enough to jam, but its easily visible... may be chargers fault??
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