Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I am selling one Fujifilm X-Pro2 (Black) Camera Body for $1450 or best offer. Cash (local pickup, item is located in Sacramento, CA, United States) or PayPal only. Will ship to verified PayPal shipping address only. This camera is used and I am the first & only original owner. Please be aware of other people selling similar camera for less, as they are most likely import models and warranty not honored in United States. I have receipt & proof of sale from B&H Photo where I originally purchased this camera new. Note: I made a small modification to the rear AFL button. Basically, I custom sculpted some black Sugru to enhance the tactile feel of the AFL button. Without it, I found the AFL button very flushed with the rear thumb grip area and hard to feel. After this modification, it is MUCH EASIER to feel for the AFL button to do back button focus and it is also easier to press the button from various thumb positions. The modification is very well sculpted by myself and I think it appear stock as if the camera was made with it. FYI, Sugru is a pliable silicone material and can be easily removed by peeling off and rubbing off the residue which may or may not be left when removed. Either way, this modification is easily reversible, please let me know if you want me to remove it or leave it on.. I think whoever owns and uses this camera will appreciate the modification. Camera body is excellent condition. Exhibits little to no signs of wear. No damage, scratches or blemishes that are note worthy. There might be some VERY few & VERY faint scratches, they are really hard to even notice and I would say such minimal signs of usage are going to be in these locations eventually no matter how hard you try to baby the camera, and I take care of my camera gear very well. Camera is fully functional and operates perfectly. As of 2/10/2017, camera has latest firmware v2.01 already updated and installed. Camera is complete with all original packaging and accessories as it should come with from manufacturer (NP-W126 Lithium-Ion Rechargeable Battery, Battery Charger & Power Cord, body cap, hot shoe cover, PC sync port cap, neck strap & lug attachments, owner's manual & warranty papers). I also already have an Expert Shield Crystal Clear Screen Protector applied to the rear screen. I guess I can only upload basically 1 photo. Contact me for more images or any inquires. Thanks. If you're seriously looking into this camera, I will assume you most likely know something about this camera. - Latest generation of To those who don't know, let me point out some of the finer points and advantages to the X-Pro2 sensor technology, 24mp X TransX Trans- Latest generation 3ofin camera processor, X Processor Pro -ACROS B&W Film Simulation - Dual Card Slots - Highest Rear Screen Resolution of all X cameras - One of the fastest EVF refresh rate, 85fps, second to the X-T2.. but 85 fps is plenty fast, nearly ZERO lag time, very responsive - Hybrid Viewfinder that included both an Electronic Viewfinder (EVF) and an Optical Viewfinder (OVF) - Electronic Rangefinder (ERF) with OVF make it possible to both confirm focus and manually focus with OVF - Focus Point Joystick - easier faster manipulation of AF point as well as menu navigation - Weather Resistant (WR) build - One of the fastest autofocusing mirrorless camera to date, 91 POINTS(7x13) and 325 POINTS(13x25) - Improvement of phase detection AF accuracy. By employing the new AF algorithm used in the X-T2, the AF accuracy has been improved. Sale of this item is final, so please ask any questions before committing to purchase. If you would like to discuss a best offer for this X-Pro2 camera body, please contact me directly to discuss. Thanks. INCLUDED: Owner's manual Clip attaching tool Protective cover Strap clip Body cap Shoulder strap Battery Charger BC-W126 Accessories included Li-ion battery NP-W126 SPECIFICATIONS: Starting up period Approx 0.4sec. Operating Humidity 10 - 80% (no condensation) Operating Temperature -10°C - +40°C / +32°F - +104°F Approx. 445g / 17.5 oz. (excluding accessories, battery and memory card) Weight Approx. 495g / 15.7 oz. (including battery and memory card) (Minimum depth: 34.8mm / 1.4 in.) Dimensions 140.5mm (W) x 82.8mm (H) x 45.9mm (D) / 5.5in. (W) x 3.3in. (H) x 1.8in. (D) Approx. 80 min. *Face detection is set to OFF Continuance battery life of movie capture*4 Approx. 55 min. *Face detection is set to OFF Actual battery life of movie capture*4 Approx. 250 / 350 frames (EVF / OVF, When XF35mmF1.4 R is set) *4 Battery life for still images*4 Power supply NP-W126 Li-ion battery (included) Hot shoe, Syncronized terminal *Mechanical release S1 button Microphone / shutter release input: ø2.5mm, stereo mini connector Others HDMI micro connector (Type D) HDMI output * connectable with Remote Release RR-90 (sold separately) USB 2.0 High-Speed / Micro USB Digital interface Terminal Other functions Exif Print, PRINT Image Matching II, Language(35 languages including JP / EN), Time difference, exposure preview on LCD during Manual mode, EVF brightness, EVF color, LCD brightness, LCD color, Mode effect on monitor, Customize Wireless function Geotagging, Wireless communication (Image transfer), View & Obtain Images, Remote camera shooting, PC Autosave, instax printer print Infrastructure Access mode WEP / WPA / WPA2 mixed mode Encryption IEEE 802.11b / g / n (standard wireless protocol) Standard Wireless transmitter Advanced filter Toy camera / Miniature / Pop color / High-key / Low-key / Dynamic tone / Soft focus / Partial color (Red / Orange / Yellow / Green / Blue / Purple) ISO restriction(DR100% : No limit, DR200% : ISO400 or more, DR400% : ISO800 ore more ) Dynamic range setting AUTO, 100%, 200%, 400% Film Simulation mode 15 modes (PROVIA / Standard, Velvia / Vivid, ASTIA / Soft, CLASSIC CHROME, PRO Neg.Hi, PRO Neg.Std, Black& White, Black& White+Ye Filter, Black& White+R Filter, Black& White+GFilter, Sepia, ACROS, ACROS+Ye Filter, ACROS+R Filter, ACROS+G Filter) * Use a card with SD Speed Class with class 10 or higher HD 1280x720 60p / 50p / 30p / 25p / 24p up to 28 min Movie recording Full HD 1920x1080 60p / 50p / 30p / 25p / 24p up to 14 min. LCD monitor 3.0-inch, aspect ratio 3:2, approx 1.62 millions dots Built-in eye sensor Diagonal angle of view : approx 29.1°(Horizontal angle of view : approx 24.4°) Magnification : 0.59x with 50 mm lens (35mm equivalent) at infinity and diopter set to -1.0m-1 Eyepoint : approx 16mm(from the rear end of the camera's eyepiece) Diopter adjustment : -4 to +2m-1 0.48-in TFT color viewfinder Approx 2.36 millions dots(4:3) Coverage of viewing area vs. capturing area : approx. 100% EVF Coverage of frame area v.s. capturing area: approx.92% Magnifications approx x0.36 / x0.60 Reverse Galilean viewfinder with electronic bright frame display OVF Viewfinder Hot shoe Yes (Dedicated TTL Flash compatible) * Red-eye removal is active when Face Detection is set to ON. Red-eye Reduction Auto / Red-eye Reduction & Forced Flash / Red-eye Reduction & Slow Synchro / Suppressed Flash / Red-eye Reduction & Rear-curtain Synchro / Commander Red-eye removal ON Auto / Forced Flash / Slow Synchro / Suppressed Flash / Rear-curtain Synchro / Commander Red-eye removal OFF Flash modes Interval timer shooting Yes (Setting : Interval, Number of shots, Starting time) Self-timer 10 sec. / 2 sec. Delay Preset : Fine, Shade, Fluorescent light (Daylight), Fluorescent light (Warm White), Fluorescent light (Cool White), Incandescent light, Underwater Custom1 to 3 / Color temperature selection(2500K - 10000K) / White balance Automatic Scene recognition / * AF-C : Tracking * AF-S : Wide Wide/Tracking AF:(up to 18 area) Zone AF:3×3/5×5/7×7 from 91 areas on 13x 7 grid Single point AF:EVF/LCD/OVF:13x7/25x13(Changeable size of AF frame among 5 types) FUJIFILM X-Pro2 with Firmware Ver.2.00 or later * AF-C : Tracking * AF-S : Wide Wide / Tracking AF : (up to 18 area) Zone AF : 3x3 / 5x5 / 7x7 from 77 areas on 11x 7 grid, Single point AF : EVF / LCD / OVF : 11x7/21x13(Changeable size of AF frame among 5 types), FUJIFILM X-Pro2 with Firmware Ver.1.00 AF frame selection Intelligent Hybrid AF (TTL contrast AF / TTL phase detection AF) type Single AF / Continuous AF / MF mode Focus White Balance Bracketing (±1 / ±2 / ±3) ISO sensitivity Bracketing (±1/3EV / ±2/3EV / ±1EV) Dynamic Range Bracketing (100% · 200% · 400%) Film simulation bracketing(Any 3 types of film simulation selectable) Auto bracketing AE Bracketing(±2EV / ±5/3EV / ±4/3EV / ±1EV / ±2/3EV / ±1/3EV) * Speed of continuous shooting depends on shooting environment and shooting frames * recordable frames depends on recording media Approx 3.0 fps(JPEG : endless Lossless Compression RAW : endless Uncompressed RAW : 36 frames) Continuous shooting Approx. 8.0 fps(JPEG : 83 frames Lossless compression RAW : 33 frames Uncompressed RAW : 27 frames) 1/250 sec. or slower Synchronized shutter speed for flash Bulb mode(up to 60 min), TIME : 30 sec. to 1/32000 sec. 4 sec. to 1/32000 sec.(P mode), 30 sec. to 1/32000 sec.(All modes) Mechanical + Electronic Shutter Bulb mode : 1 sec. fixed, TIME : 1 sec to 1/32000sec 1 sec. to 1/32000 sec.(P / A / S / M modes) Electronic Shutter*3 Bulb mode(up to 60 min), TIME : 30 sec. to 1/8000 sec. 4 sec. to 1/8000 sec.(P mode), 30 sec. to 1/8000 sec.(All modes) Mechanical Shutter Shutter speed Image Stabilizer Supported with OIS type lenses (movie recording : -2.0EV - +2.0EV) Exposure compensation -5.0EV - +5.0EV, 1/3EV step Exposure mode P(Program AE) / A(Aperture Priority AE) / S(Shutter Speed Priority AE) / M(Manual Exposure) Exposure control TTL 256-zone metering, Multi / Spot / Average / Center Weighted Extended output sensitivity : ISO100 / 25600 / 51200 Sensitivity AUTO1 / AUTO2 / AUTO3(up to ISO12800) / ISO200 to 12800(1/3 step)(Standard Output Sensitivity) Lens mount FUJIFILM X mount S: (3:2) 3008 x 2000 / (16:9) 3008 x 1688 / (1:1) 2000 x 2000 M: (3:2) 4240 x 2832 / (16:9) 4240 x 2384 / (1:1) 2832 x 2832 L: (3:2) 6000 x 4000 / (16:9) 6000 x 3376 / (1:1) 4000 x 4000 Number of recorded pixels Audio: Linear PCM/ Stereo sound 48KHz sampling Movie Video Compression: MPEG-4 AVC / H.264 Movie File Format: MOD Movie JPEG (Exif Ver.2.3)*2, RAW : 14bit RAW(RAF original format), RAW+JPEG (Design rule for Camera File system compliant / DPOF-compatible) Still image File format UHS-I/UHS-II(Only Slot 1)*1 Storage media SD memory card(up to 2GB) / SDHC memory card(up to 32GB) / SDXC memory card( to 256GB) Ultra Sonic Vibration Sensor Cleaning system Image sensor 23.6mm x 15.6mm(APS-C)X-Trans CMOS III with primary color filter. Number of effective pixels 24.3 millions pixels Model Name FUJIFILM X-Pro2
  2. XWing0949

    Is getting X-Pro 1 a good idea?

    I had an x-pro1 and loved it.. I actually back peddled from having a more advanced camera such as the OM-D E-M1 & E-M5 MkII... super fast and full of features and great IQ.. I just really like fuji and in fact my first 2 cameras before my M43 journey were the x100 & x10. So, I gave up all my nice M43 stuff and went back to simple x-pro1.. primitive EVF (compared to the latest gen EVF's) and slow AF and write speeds.. but, the style and handling and IQ were something I found unique to the X-pro1 and really liked. Now, since you have an X-E2, you have a much better processor and AF and EVF... and with latest firmware update, if it isn't up yet, it will be as up to date as any other more current X camera (save that of the X-Pro2) and match spec for spec with the latest X-E2S that just released. If you don't need the OVF, I say save your money with the x-e2.. not much reason to get the x-pro1 unless you like the slightly different styling and want to dab at the OVF for fun.
  3. i have not.. perhaps the sd card got corrupted? or the firmware update file itself? I'd suggest also double checking to make sure the file size of the firmware update from fujifilm matches what you saved to your desktop and onto the sd card.. if they don't match, could mean something didn't copy correctly. but, if you did them pretty much exactly at the same time, there should not be such error. I know this probably didn't help, just throwing my 2 cents on possibly trouble shooting your issue. Good luck.
  4. whatever.. i think you're confused. I won't hold it against you. The point is pretty clear.. can't delete raw & jpegs from both slots at the same time. I would like to, please (Fuji) allow an option to do this. And I don't think my response was nasty.. If if it came across that way, it was a reflection of what came first towards me. I believe you initiated the verbal sh!t tossing by saying things like "Personally I'd have to be a far worse photographer than I am to make mistakes so glaring (in any great number) that I'd be happy to decide their fate from the camera's LCD screen." and "I can't see that there is going to be any great saving in card storage for a half decent photographer and memory is so cheap these days that we can carry several cards per body." .. specifically in those two examples, phrasses like "far worse photographer" and "half decent photographer" in the context you put them in, came across to me that you were suggesting I'm one or both of the two because of my methods. Not cool. And I still don't claim to be anywhere near a badass in photography. Even if I were to admit to being less of a photographer than you or anybody else, because I'm still learning and trying to develop myself and skills, I don't see the problem in me suggesting that Fuji provide me a way with deleting options to personally facilitate my current methods which make sorting and condensing my choice photos by allowing me options to more efficiently delete unwanted photo files.
  5. why can't I have it both ways? Your reason and mine differ. I want to shoot raw & jpeg so I have jpeg ready based on in camera settings.. but, if I don't like it and would like to tweak it another way, I still have a good working raw file to go back to and make changes later. Why is that so difficult to comprehend? I don't think you get it... if I am reviewing images and see something is obviously not in focus or somebody blinked or perhaps the shutter speed didn't freeze motion the way I wanted to, why would I want to keep both raw and jpegs if it's obviously a failed image? what's the point in keeping one or the either if it's not even worth saving? weird you can't see trashing the garbage of both raw and a processed jpeg of the same photo garbage wouldn't be something somebody would want to do? Hey, I don't attack your methods, so you shouldn't talk crap and impose your almighty rights and wrongs on me either. I make no apologies for not meeting your standards of near 100% perfect shots every single time. Sorry if you never miss focus or can control when somebody blinks or looks off at the last minute. It's not about saving memory space.. why are your assessments so shallow? it's about taking the free time in between shoots to start the process of looking for keepers and getting rid of the garbage images. And just what do you know about my shooting methods anyways and how my photo gigs work? I've worked 8-12 hours days with clients back to back every half hour in a public outdoor environment. The perfect setup and controlled environment is not always there so I have to go with the flow and adapt and sometimes you just have to get what you can as much as you can so you have options and good stock of images for client to choose in the end. And, so there will be a number of shots, often duplicates that need sorting and dumping to condense to the perfect one.. and i have to turn around the photos within a day to the studio, so yes, time is precious and if I have the time to start condensing the best photos before I have to download later after my work day.. it's gonna need to be done sooner or later so why not sooner?.. and if that's the case, I would like the option to do so efficiently later. and actually, I never shoot jpeg for clients or the studio as they always want raw, so this isn't even a real issue for my actual work... going back to the the issue I personally have with the file deletion system, when I shoot for myself, I shoot both raw+jpeg.. I could just do back up setting and deal with 1 of the slots and delete all the images from slot 2 later if not needed. But, I'm working on trying to shoot raw on 1 card and jpeg to another so I can easily access just the jpeg files to quickly send via wifi.. don't have to mess with raw conversions then sending photos, save an extra step. Sometimes, for example, the lighting isn't right, especially if you need to do a test shot using flash.. that's something more often than not should be trashed after you've made the shot with perfect flash to ambient light balance... again, why would I want to keep both files if I can just get rid of both right off the bat so I never have to deal with them again in raw and jpeg? Nuff said, having a deletion option for 1 or both card slots would be much appreciated.
  6. Yes, if saved raw+jpeg to same slot, it will delete both automatically. Well, this is not the backup process like one of the settings where it will write raw+jpeg to slot 1 and the same raw+jpeg file to slot 2 simultaneously. I think the same problem could be applied here as well... you will have to go into slot 2 (or which ever the other slot you were not on) and repeat the process.. Why would I want to even keep the backup of the image(s) I already know are no good? I mean if I'm busy on the job and snapping away, on my down time between shooting sessions, I quickly review what I've just taken and start deleting what I know was a clear miss and not a worthy keeper so when I process the good photos at home, it'll be that much less to download and be more efficient cause I've already "cut the fat". So, no, I don't think it necessarily undermines the back-up process. And in the case or splitting raw and jpeg between slot 1 & slot 2, sure, you could consider it a backup, but then again it's not necessarily a full backup as explained above where both raw+jpeg are both saved to slot 1 & slot 2.. that's X-Pro2's concept of backup setting for how to use the dual card slots. I still think you should be allowed to preset how the camera deals with duplicate files and either definitively tell it to delete both raw & jpeg files together at the same time.. OR, ask me every time what I would like to do when I delete during the deletion confirmation page/pop-up. I think having options here to expedite the editing process would be better.. personally for me, it leaves me with more work.. Yes, I could just write sequentially so it doesn't touch or write to slot 2 until slot 1 is full, this way I can delete both raw+jpeg at the same time as I'm wanting.. but, that negates the ability of having dual card slots to automatically back up the images immediately. Choice, I want choice to still do my backup AND delete both corresponding raw +Jpeg files at the same time so I don't have a lot of unwanted photos I have to waste time downloading and looking for and deleting later when I have time sooner to do them directly from the camera.
  7. Not really.. sure, you might want one or the other.. but, usually If I see it's a bad photo, I wouldn't want either and try to start culling the crap out of the mix so I have better photos to focus on. There should at least be an option to ask you if you want to just delete the raw or just delete the jpeg or delete both. For example, can't you imagine if you took like 200 photos and say you wanted to knock off maybe 75 of them and they were not sequential and scattered and spaced though out intermittently, that if you took the time to go through the slot 1 raw files, that trying to do the same and seek out the very same photos you just deleted off the slot 1 and having to do the whole process again in slot 2 just for the jpeg versions could be a potential big waste of time? It's doubling the work and making you delete 150 photos instead of 75. I'm not asking or suggesting the camera be a "mind reader"..quite the contrary, I want to tell the camera exactly what to do all the time or at least give me the option and ask me what I want to do instead of leaving me the daunting task of doubling my culling process... don't you think it might a be a good idea that there should at least be an option during the deleting process to ask you what you want to do? do you want to delete only the raw file or also the jpeg as well?, or somewhere in file management settings to decisively set to delete both raw and jpegs at the same time?
  8. Hey, noticed something a little annoying about the X-Pro2 regarding deleting RAW + JPEG Files. I have my dual card slot setup to be RAW/JPEG, meaning RAW gets recorded to Slot 1, JPEG gets recorded to Slot 2. So, when I shoot RAW+JPEG, as I usually do, both RAW & JPEG get recorded corrected and into their respective slots, 1 & 2. Now, when I go to playback the images I have taken and I see something I want to delete, I cannot delete both RAW & JPEG files at the same time?!.. unlike previous cameras where it will delete both files for you. I'm usually set to review slot 1 with RAW file and I delete it.. but, the jpeg remains.. I have to actually switch to slot 2 and locate the same image and delete the jpeg like that. one or two pics, provided they're not buried deep or scattered widely apart amongst a large number of photos you may have take, would still be a pain in the ass to delete both unwanted RAW & JPEG files. Is there a work around this so the camera is intelligent enough to delete both RAW+JPEG files at the same time so I don't have to do double duty to clean up my sd cards? If not, looks like this needs to be addressed for future firmware update ASAP! Thanks in advance.
  9. Thanks for the info on the sugru. i looked it up online as well.. one video scared me a bit as he said to remove you need to take a razor blade and run it along the back of the sugru where it meets whatever you have it stuck onto to get it off! should come off clean, but then again it was on a piece of glass. But, if it does come off by basically picking at the edge or corner and peeling off and rubbing off any remaining bit, then that shouldn't be too bad.. yeah. I still might try.. only need so little of it though.. just enough to feel right off the surface.. I really wished they had made it not so flush.. in this one design area, I think I preferred the original X-Pro1's AF-L button the way it just barely protruded just enough to feel it with more confidence. or.. i need to just keep practicing with it and muscle memory will be enough to confidently blindly reach for the AF-L button. Speaking of buttons.. I have to say the AE-L button seems just a bit too up or to the left than I would personally have wanted.. maybe I need bigger hands or at least a longer thumb.. find myself awkwardly reaching for it the way I hold the camera.. luckily, I don't need to use that button much as I'm usually fine obtaining AE-L via half shuttter button press (with back button for focus). I have so many nice straps, I don't think it will be a problem accessorizing.. I also have a small surplus of a variety of soft release shutter buttons.. they are also pretty easy to lose, some more than others depending on the design.. luckily, they're pretty cheap to get and replace. thanks for the sugru advice
  10. Looks like nice work on the sugru. I think I could use a little on the AF-L button on the back of the X-Pro2.. it's fairly flush with the body/grip and could use a little bump or protrusion to define it better by touch. Never used the stuff, but I've seen how it's applied.. jump mold, shape and place onto spot you want it and maybe fine tune the form after it's on. How long does it take to cure/dry? Seems like it holds pretty good in high traffic and touch areas.. You say it's removable? Pretty easy to remove without leaving residue or damaging what it is adhered over? It's not a big deal, but just trying to get an idea if I place over the AF-L button, when it comes time to remove (or replace if this stuff wears out), the AF-L print on the button will still be there and not lifted off along with the sugru.
  11. No, the sync terminal is on the outside on the left side (by viewfinder side).. lower closer to the bottom on the X-Pro1, up higher towards the strap lug on the X-Pro2, but exact same type of sync terminal & cap which is the push in type, not the typical screw in type you can more easily find as 3rd party / generic brands. For anybody interested to get the proper replacement, here's the part #: BB24156-100 And, the X-T1 has the sync terminal on the front left of the camera on the outside.. They're never behind any doors. And the X-T1 is the screw in type which is a lot easier to replace. Trust me, i've looked and know how to do a search. I've tried every possible wording that that part could be and search often ends up the same results. It's not the same as the X_pro1 & x-pro2.. all those generic sync terminal port covers are basically the screw in type and size does not fit. X-Pro1 & X-Pro2 are both uniquely smaller and push in type.. I can't find that anywhere on Amazon or eBay. In the end, I called Fujifilm Customer Service - Parts & Accessories Department to special order one.. Under $7 each + shipping. For anybody interested to get the proper replacement, here's the part #: BB24156-100 And, no, they don't sell separately on their store or online anywhere, unlike the X-T1 replacement cover kit.
  12. i see.. yeah, i think you're right.. should probably not even need this option as I don't think it was ever implemented in any other x camera before.. so, why now?..and, it would be nice to overlay both information, as you say so you can gauge both the conservative and less conservative DOF scales. It just seems if you want to be more precise with your actual focus range and be sure what you want within focus is in focus, you should just stay with the more conservative option which, if I'm understanding correctly, is pixel basis. i get it.. but, I'm not sure if Fuji's default, Pixel Basis is it?, is pointless.. that's the more conservative option, right?.. since the DOF scale is often less broader than the film format basis, it should be more precise instead. Pixel Basis = More Conservative = Shorter DOF Scale Bar = More Precision to get enough of subject in sharp focus as possible. Film Format Basis = Less Conservative = Broader/Longer DOF Scale Bar = Less Precision that may not necessary have enough of subject in focus... scale could potentially tell you you might have subject in sharp focus within the DOF scale measurements, but since it's less precise, you may find you did not get enough of subject in sharp focus after taking the photo. That's how I'm understanding it.. if you go with Film Format Basis, it would suggest you have a lot more distance in front and in back of focus point.. but, that may not necessarily be the case It just seems if you want to be more precise with your actual focus range and be sure what you want within focus is in focus, you should just stay with the more conservative option which, if I'm understanding correctly, is pixel basis.
  13. just confirmed on my x-pro2, you CAN adjust the auto ISO with comp dial when aperture & shutter are manual. Compared to the x-pro1, this is a great new feature for the x-pro2... where as the x-pro1 will always try to balance exposure in the middle and a few times in tricky lighting, you really don't want to do that. On the x-pro2, this ability really smooths operation and exposure control even more on this camera by not having to manually reset the ISO to over or under expose an image (like you would have to on the x-pro1)... hey, both have exposure comp dials, at least now with the x-pro2 you can still use it even when set as described above. great!
  14. hmm.. it sounds like there should be no difference in how the image is rendered.. but, more about the expectations you'd get in regards to how much is or is not in focus. So, you are saying best to leave on film format basis?
  15. nope.. well, not anymore. lost that too, haha! i thought i heard something drop on the ground when I pulled out of my bag to take a photo, but ignored the sound as I was more interested in trying to take the shot.. should have noticed the feeling under my finger over the shutter button was different.. guess i missed it during the heat of the moment and didn't notice until I got back home. luckily, it was cheap so I'm not tripping over it. but, btw, it was grey color.. or so that's what I ordered.. it looks a bit more metallic like a silver, actually. btw, that was on my x-pro1. no worries, I have extra soft release buttons of varying color and design at home... will decide if I want to mess with that on my new x-pro2 or not