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veejaycee

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    London, UK
  • Interests
    Until I recently became ill and very unfit - working my way back - Fell and mountain walking, wild camping, cycling, fishing when I can, and of course, photography since the 1960s. Lifelong Arsenal FC supporter.

Camera Gear

  • Camera List
    X-Pro1, X-T1.
  • Lens List
    Fuji Primes, 14mm f2.8, 18mm f2, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 60mm f2.4 90mm f2.
    Fuji zooms, 18-55mm OIS, 55-200mm OIS.
    Legacy glass, Minolta 24mm f2.8, Minolta 50mm f2, Minolta 135mm f2.8. Minolta Rokkor 58mm f1.4.

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  1. veejaycee

    X100F with 15-45mm?

    The 14mm is my most used prime. Since you replied I can now upload another image. This is the first frame from the same walkabout as those previously shown. The difference is, this was taken in normal fashion at eye height with a the 23mm f1,4. Camera up, click, camera down - but look how quickly the naturalness has gone and an instant pose been adopted. That was when I put the 14mm on and it's pretty much all I use now for street apart from sometimes going to the other extreme of 60mm or 90mm for a close up or across street capture..
  2. veejaycee

    Problem with Raf and PS6

    Neither DNG or Raw lock in the conversion. Either file type which has been edited in LR can always be re-opened and readjusted. Likewise if either are processed in ACR. However, LR will not recognise ACR conversions and ACR will not recognise LR conversions. If you open an LR processed raw or dng in ACR it will use the unprocessed file and similarly, an ACR processed file opened in LR will open as a non processed file. Memory is ridiculously cheap nowadays. I retain raw, dng, tiff and jpg copies of my keepers. I am thinking of thinning out my older files though simply to keep track more easily and I'm getting more ruthless with anything sub par.
  3. veejaycee

    X100F with 15-45mm?

    I shoot blind from the hip as described. It's a 14mm lens so usually room to crop. The one "must" is to keep the camera back as perpendicular as possible - not leaning back or forward. maybe I'm lucky but the camera settles nicely into this position and just a little practice steadying the camera with thumb on shutter button and fingers underneath will make this happen. It doesn't matter if the camera tilts left or right, there's always space to straighten and crop. I'm quite close when I shoot these. The 14mm has a special quality that gives real depth to an image.
  4. veejaycee

    X100F with 15-45mm?

    Hi Chris, I shoot aperture priority usually setting between f4 and f8 and set the distance to the hyperfocal by turning the focus ring so the f4 or f8 or whatever is opposite the inf mark. With 14mm this gives me sharpness from my feet (almost) to inf but I will accept less than inf at larger apertures. The X-Pro is slung from left shoulder across the body on a long strap to hang naturally perpendicular in the hollow of my right hip so I can casually rest my right hand as if steadying the camera but with thumb on the shutter. Shooting angle is about 45° to the direction my body is facing as I casually look around- I prefer to have no re-action to my taking a picture, The clutched manual focus with distance and DoF markings are invaluable on the 14mm 16mm and 23mm f1.4 for this style of shooting to eliminate guesswork but a DoF chart will help for other Fuji lenses. I process in standalone LR 6 and standalone PS CC 2015 using Nik filters. In LR I always begin with the default Adobe Standard sim which gives me the flatest raw for basic exposure and tone. I don't sharpen in or reduce noise in LR. I export to PS and use Nik colour FX Tonal Contrast filter. This is what gives the depth to folds in clothing and a 3D look to the image. You can use this before or after silver FX. In SFX fine tune the tones using the colour sliders and increase/decrease black/white. I use a sepia tone reduced to around 25% or whatever is needed to reproduce as near as I can, the warm black tones of an old fibre-based print. Finally I either add a vignette or burn-in via control points to emphasise the subject. On the previous image above I think I burned L/R edges and burned in lower R and mid left. Below just a light vignette in the corners. I sharpen using the high pass filter.
  5. veejaycee

    Large Indicators mode

    Yep, both the XT20 and XT2 got the large icons feture. A boon for oldies like me!
  6. veejaycee

    X100F with 15-45mm?

    I just tried my 16-55mm f2.8 on my X-Pro1 for the first (and only) time. I was surprised that the frame lines disappeared at 17mm but there was still plenty of space between the lines and the edge of the OVF when they disappeared. The X-Pro1 is my street camera and the lens mostly fitted to it is the 14mm f2.8 which is otherwise used only on my IR converted X-E1. I'm quite sure that 14mm is only barely out of the OVF but this just gives me extra leeway for framing at eye level but in truth I mostly use this setup to shoot blind from the hip so I'm ready to crop.
  7. veejaycee

    X100F with 15-45mm?

    That would be an X-Pro2 or X-E3. 😀 Also, it would only impact sales of the X100F and X70 and their add-on lenses. This post has made me think though - I don't know about others but if I use a std zoom 15-45, 16-50, 18-55 or my fave 16-55 f2.8 - ost of the pictures I take will be at either end of the zoom. Makes me wonder if an alternative would be a fixed lens with (say) 16mm - 35mm -70mm focal lengths or similar. Of course, this also would impact sales of other models and lenses.
  8. veejaycee

    XT-2 and Lightroom

    I bought Thomas' ebook and sharpening presets for LR about 18 months ago with IXT Beta. I don't actually use any of the presets though. I run my files through IXT with no LR NR or and no LR sharpening. I then process the DNGs as usual in LR 6 standalone and export tiffs to PS CC 2015 standalone where I size and sharpen using the high pass filter at lowest settings (0.3) and that is all the sharpening I need from the 24mp sensor. The main thing (IMO) is not to sharpen in LR but use one's chosen sharpening method on a tiff copy. Smart sharpen and Nik output sharpener are quite good but keep the settings low.
  9. Good for you. Fuji UK?
  10. I think that is a job for Fuji. How on earth did it get in there? Maybe Fuji will do it free as it shouldn't really have been able to get inside the lens.
  11. You can buy adapters for most makes of lens to fit to Fuji cameras. Bear in mind though. You will not have AF and auto exposure will be aperture priority only or full manual. You will need to input the focal length in the menus to have the FL listed in the Exif info. You must also check the item shoot without lens and trun on because there is no communication between the camera and a 3rd party lens. It can be difficult trying to accurately focus (manually) a long lens. I have used a prime lens - Canon FD 300mm + X1.4 TC with the aid of a monopod and squeezing off several frames on CL (continuous low speed) to obtain about 50% hit rate. I find that 135mm is about as long as I can handhold and manually focus without a monopod. As you are not very conversant with cameras as yet, I strongly suggest you stick with Fuji lenses for now. Checkout Fuji 16-50mm XC and 50--230mm XC or the more expensive 18-55mm XF, and 55-200mm XF lenses from a used source. All have stabilisation. The XC lenses have a smaller max aperture but are still good performers and are much cheaper to buy. Generally speaking, 3rd party primes are better performers than zooms. What lenses do you have at present? Vic
  12. Never used it anyway but just checked and same here.
  13. I think some of your settings are wrong. Checkout the Fuji AF guide I sent you. http://fujifilm-x.com/af/en/af_mode/index.html If you still have problems send the lens and camera to Fuji to check and include some of your dissatisfactory pictures for Fuji to see.
  14. http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/firmware/x/xt2/index.html
  15. veejaycee

    X-Pro2 Shutter Delay

    Setup the camera as you currently do except shoot in CL. You'll find you can quickly dab the shutter for single exposures. Set CL (in Drive settings) to 3 FPS. That should do it. You might also (if necessary) maintain half press in between exposures or perhaps use AE-L, exposure lock. Also check the release priority (focus or release) to see it is at best setting for circumstances. (Sometimes, smallish aperture for wider DoF and release priority can offer instant shooting if the subjects remain on the same focus plane.)
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