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veejaycee

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    London, UK
  • Interests
    Until I recently became ill and very unfit - working my way back - Fell and mountain walking, wild camping, cycling, fishing when I can, and of course, photography since the 1960s. Lifelong Arsenal FC supporter.

Camera Gear

  • Camera List
    X-Pro1, X-T1.
  • Lens List
    Fuji Primes, 14mm f2.8, 18mm f2, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 60mm f2.4 90mm f2.
    Fuji zooms, 18-55mm OIS, 55-200mm OIS.
    Legacy glass, Minolta 24mm f2.8, Minolta 50mm f2, Minolta 135mm f2.8. Minolta Rokkor 58mm f1.4.

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  1. veejaycee

    60mm f2.4 AF noise?

    The AF motors in the early lenses of which this is one, were noisy compared to later lenses. Mine makes a sound (wouldn't call it noise). Sharp with a lovely bokeh. Great for portraits or close-ups and for picking out architectural detail. Also good for candid street portraiture and general photography. You have one of the best lenses in the Fuji line up - enjoy it. Vic
  2. veejaycee

    Hello again

    Hi Matt, Good to have you back again. I'm sure you'll like the XT3. Quite change from the XP1 but I still like the XP1 for straight forward shooting without bells and whistle to configure. I still use mine for street stuff and people in general even though I have XT2 + XT20.
  3. I think a half-case is your best bet, They come with a small grip on the front to enhance your hold on the camera. Thumb grips used in conjunction are also useful as they allow you to apply a little pressure from front and back.
  4. veejaycee

    Tripod Collars For Telephoto Zooms?

    Where on the lens would you fit it? The only available non-tapered area is less than 1cm wide and covers the zoom markings. Perhaps try using it on a tripod with the OIS switched on. The 55-200mm is heavier than the 50-230mm and metal so maybe it would hold steadier. https://goo.gl/images/opYsbk
  5. The 16-80 f4 is a much wanted lens - by me too before I got the 16-55mm f2.8 a few years ago. Now I wouldn't be satisfied with any less IQ than the 16-55 f2.8. I've been spoiled and you as a new fellow owner are about to find out just what I mean. I think the quality of the f2.8 bokeh at 55mm will be better than that from the f4 lens even at the longer 80mm focal length. I view the 16-80mm f4 OIS as a very useful walkabout/general purpose lens but the 16-55mm f2.8 is a replacement for several primes in IQ. My fast primes are now specialist lenses and I keep them mainly to use with XT20 for a lightweight combination or with X-Pro1 for inconspicuous street shooting.
  6. I think that is a lens issue rather than the camera unless it's the APS sensor size. I found similar problems but put it down to the near bird being too small get a focus lock on. The XT3 has total PDAF coverage of the sensor which might help but only if the subjects before were appearing outside the central area covered by PDAF on the XT2. Apart from reminding you that there is a zoom limiter for subjects within 5 metres I can't suggest anything else. The problem of course is that you need to know in advance that a subject will appear within that 5 M zone. If you are using AFC then perhaps try AFC custom setting #4 (Suddenly appearing subjects). Camera boost mode on too. I must say that I too have been unsuccessful in capturing even Heron sized birds in flight (using the X1.4 TC). I'm actually considering swapping my 100-400mm for the 50-140mm + X2.0 TC which is lighter and very sharp from what I've seen. What I'd really like is a 300mm f4 or 400mm f4.5 with TCs.
  7. veejaycee

    Nothing in focus syndrome

    You can only be 100% sure to avoid this by devoting the AE-on button to exposure, the AF-on button to focus and turning OFF shutter AF and shutter AE. You will then lock exposure with AE back button, lock focus with AF back button and only use the shutter button to take the picture. However, you are not likely to suffer this problem very often and it is not reasonable to expect anyone to do this in practice so it's just something to remember as a possible cause when you do find your pictures oof when you assumed they would be sharp. You are more likely to get caught out when shooting wide angles at small apertures and the GC is a place where you are most likely to do just that - perhaps that is one time you might follow the above practice. With so many automated functions with so many overrides and parameters to set - this is just one of those things that will sometimes happen. All you can really do is check your switches and settings now and again.
  8. veejaycee

    Cable Release on X10

    Most mechanical cable releases had/have a tapered thread so they fit a range of cameras. They may not feel like a 100% fit but they should do the job. Do not over-tighten, one or two turns should be enough to hold it firm.
  9. Not sure I've understood but: If you are using the flash unit's infrared focus assist for AF you'll need to have the flash switched on to enable the IR lamp. You may find you need to switch on the camera's IR assist instead in the camera menu.
  10. That's more than I could come up with. I suppose the rest is down to the manufacturers and their practices.
  11. veejaycee

    Kaizen extraordinaire

    Believe it or not, Fuji just issued new firmware for these 2 of the oldest 3 lenses. 18mm f2 - http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/firmware/lens/xf18mm/ 60mm f2.4 http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/firmware/lens/xf60mm/
  12. veejaycee

    Nothing in focus syndrome

    @raagamuffin I realise you said you don't think you switched to manual but what can happen at small apertures is this - You set a small aperture f11 then half press the shutter button and everything becomes sharp so you assume you have AF on target when in fact all you've done is use AE to close the aperture to f11 - same as if you were checking DoF. Everything appears sharp so you take the picture but at full size on PC screen even at f11 the softness is more obvious. I've been caught out like this myself when I've half pressed the shutter button and AF has apparently functioned but then thought "hello - this should be on back button focus". It is on BB focus but the half press of the shutter button closing to a small aperture gives the appearance of AF operating - when it isn't - it is in fact AE operating. That's a possible scenario based on my experiences anyway.
  13. veejaycee

    X100F WIFI

    To connect to the smartphone, set the camera to playback mode and press the function button Fn1 If you haven't done any of these - you aren't connected. .
  14. veejaycee

    Samyang 14mm f/2.8 lens

    I see them now. I think this is a misaligned mount. The Samyang motif should be on top (when fitted) as should the shallowest part of the lens hood. So - the lens hood is right and the lens body is right so it must be the mount is fitted incorrectly. If the mount has screws at regular spacings that would explain the poor workmanship. It may be that you can unscrew and turn the mount anti-clockwise by one screw spacing and refit it. You'll probably need the screwdriver sets made for spectacle adjustment. Their will be no connections to worry about as this is a 100% manual lens - otherwise the person fitting the mount would have been made to realise.
  15. veejaycee

    bulb mode

    That's because the reset default is mechanical shutter. Electronic shutter allows you to shoot at up to 1/32000th sec. If it's enabled on your screen it will show as nothing for mechanical or E electronic or ME for both when it will use mechanical until max speed is used then switch to E shutter. E shutter is silent. You can put choice of shutter on one of your buttons dials or delve into the menu to choose. The latter is probably best for you to stop you inadvertently changing the setting. Some functions - such as bulb mode - are disabled in E shutter mode. Page 155 of your paper manual - Shutter type.
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