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  • Gender
  • Location
    London, UK
  • Interests
    Until I recently became ill and very unfit - working my way back - Fell and mountain walking, wild camping, cycling, fishing when I can, and of course, photography since the 1960s. Lifelong Arsenal FC supporter.

Camera Gear

  • Camera List
    X-Pro1, X-T1.
  • Lens List
    Fuji Primes, 14mm f2.8, 18mm f2, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 60mm f2.4 90mm f2.
    Fuji zooms, 18-55mm OIS, 55-200mm OIS.
    Legacy glass, Minolta 24mm f2.8, Minolta 50mm f2, Minolta 135mm f2.8. Minolta Rokkor 58mm f1.4.

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  1. Pretty good. Mind you, the last 3 late afternoons I've ordered stuff and it's all arrived before 11am the next morning.
  2. Wash your mouth out! 😀 Is the Z any good?
  3. Let us know what you ordered - and if it comes.
  4. 1.) You should be able to pick what you want to appear in the evf and on the rear screen separately. The display back button (lower back of cam) allows you to choose from a few variations of evf/screen setup. 2.) I don't believe you can swap the 2 controls for that purpose. 3.) In the main menu you have (User settings?) an option for MY menu. This is where you can save your most used options. 4.) There are several setup guides and videos - here's one (I haven't watched it). 5.) If you shoot raw, you can shoot at fixed DR 100% and control it in your editor. If you only shoot jpg, try setting auto. At 100% is base. If you want to shoot at 200% you need to set an ISO of 400 or more. If you want to shoot at 400% you need a min ISO of 800. So maybe try auto ISO and auto DR. Vic
  5. I don't know about the 100-400mm but I'll try it soon - I don't have the 50-140mm. Known good lenses 14mm f2.8 (the absolute best for IR to f8). 23mm and 35mm f1.4s are good to about f5.6 or a little less. 16mm f1.4 is good to f8. 60mm f2.4 is no good at any aperture likewise the 18-55 zoom. The 55-200mm zoom is excellent at all apertures and focal lengths as is the 90mm f2. 16-55 works for me too although I don't have a lens filter to fit that lens, the basic conversion (580nm) shows it to work well (whether a lens filter might interfere with the light path to give a hot spot is another thing). I mostly use a Hoya R72 (720nm) on my lenses and sometimes 850nm (B&W). My favourite lenses for infrared are 14mm f2.8 and 55-200mm. I've read that 10-24 is not good. I have read that the f2 Chrons are ok for hotspots and I'm hoping the new 16mm f2.8 will work although I'm happy with the 14mm and cropping if necessary. I don't shoot IR with much else than the 14mm and the 55-200mm.
  6. I think I understand you - and thank you for all the details you provided. When using a non-Fuji lens set shoot without lens to ON. You can leave this set. Also you can leave any non Fuji lens focus length entered. The camera recognises when a Fuji lens is fitted and will override to normal Fuji auto settings. I think that's what you have done - but just to be sure. 😀 I believe you need to clean the lens and camera contacts - use something like a pencil eraser but keep the lens and the camera facing down when you do this. Otherwise it may be an electrical problem elsewhere in the camera. If it is out of warranty you should contact your local Fuji repair center for a quote before repair. They usually have an idea of the cause. Best of luck. Vic
  7. Excellent work David? Wonderful control of colour and contrast with a really theatrical feel.
  8. Hi Melissa, you don't say which camera you use but it seems you may have perhaps set an advanced mode - pano, bracketting, double exposure etc. Check under the ISO dial to make sure it's set to "S" single. If necessary, do a factory reset (user menu) but maybe take a note of what settings you have so you can re-input them. Factory reset puts the camera back in the new camera state.
  9. Which lenses do you use for IR Chris?
  10. http://bjornmoerman.blogspot.com/2019/03/comparison-review-fujifilm-x-t30-mini-x.html
  11. Hi Chris, that seems unusual, yet if it is going to occur it will most likely be during long exposures. However, there is no light path from sensor to viewfinder - the connection is purely electronic signal. If you really feel that unwanted light is entering that way try covering the camera with a layer or two of dark cloth. I've not had a problem with my IR converted XE1 either. Can you post some images showing the problem? Vic
  12. I shoot raw and fine but only for the jpg to give me a good idea of IQ before processing. On film I mostly disliked Velvia for its habit of blocking the shadows and maybe I was biased having grown up with Kocachrome 25. These days I seem to mainly process for B&W - https://photos.app.goo.gl/yLruxh3s8DWYZXDB6 Once spring arrives I'll begin shooting more colourful scenes/subjects.
  13. veejaycee


    Excellent picture.
  14. I'm surprised, I would have thought the X100S would be your street camera. I've been checking out the prices of used X100 series myself. It would need to be cheap because i already have 4 bodies and too many lenses. The X70 would be better for the 18mm focal length (for me) but although I shoot blind from the hip, I'm not comfortable without a viewfinder.
  15. What can I say Flashbang except that I have never been less jealous than I am of that bit of kit. Spending the same day in modestly paid labour you could buy 3 or 4 Meike grips - of course, you wouldn't have the same individual styling. 😉
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