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  • Gender
  • Location
    London, UK
  • Interests
    Until I recently became ill and very unfit - working my way back - Fell and mountain walking, wild camping, cycling, fishing when I can, and of course, photography since the 1960s. Lifelong Arsenal FC supporter.

Camera Gear

  • Camera List
    X-Pro1, X-T1.
  • Lens List
    Fuji Primes, 14mm f2.8, 18mm f2, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 60mm f2.4 90mm f2.
    Fuji zooms, 18-55mm OIS, 55-200mm OIS.
    Legacy glass, Minolta 24mm f2.8, Minolta 50mm f2, Minolta 135mm f2.8. Minolta Rokkor 58mm f1.4.

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  1. I don't know if it will help you but I use Faststone Image viewer (free but donate) to download my pictures. A new folder is automatically created for each day and each download retaining the download date and the file date. I zip through the jpgs and weed out any rubbish including the raw copies (easier to cull on a large screen). I then use the Edit - "Edit in external hardware" option to open in Iridient X Transformer (depending on the image) and/or direct edit in LR. I find it easier to keep track of my files that way although there will always be a file or two that needs to be removed from within LR. vers 7 out now https://www.faststone.org/FSViewerDetail.htm BTW you can set (in setup menu) - choose sequential or backup and switch the slots around.
  2. It makes sense to keep all your cameras/lenses up to date with new FW. The older bodies have poor distance and DoF displays and cannot be trusted. I don't even fully trust my newer bodies but I do trust my clutched lenses whose barrels have distance/DoF scales imprinted.
  3. Wonderful scenery with the red and green creating a wonderful contrast.
  4. Pretty good. Mind you, the last 3 late afternoons I've ordered stuff and it's all arrived before 11am the next morning.
  5. Wash your mouth out! 😀 Is the Z any good?
  6. Let us know what you ordered - and if it comes.
  7. 1.) You should be able to pick what you want to appear in the evf and on the rear screen separately. The display back button (lower back of cam) allows you to choose from a few variations of evf/screen setup. 2.) I don't believe you can swap the 2 controls for that purpose. 3.) In the main menu you have (User settings?) an option for MY menu. This is where you can save your most used options. 4.) There are several setup guides and videos - here's one (I haven't watched it). 5.) If you shoot raw, you can shoot at fixed DR 100% and control it in your editor. If you only shoot jpg, try setting auto. At 100% is base. If you want to shoot at 200% you need to set an ISO of 400 or more. If you want to shoot at 400% you need a min ISO of 800. So maybe try auto ISO and auto DR. Vic
  8. I don't know about the 100-400mm but I'll try it soon - I don't have the 50-140mm. Known good lenses 14mm f2.8 (the absolute best for IR to f8). 23mm and 35mm f1.4s are good to about f5.6 or a little less. 16mm f1.4 is good to f8. 60mm f2.4 is no good at any aperture likewise the 18-55 zoom. The 55-200mm zoom is excellent at all apertures and focal lengths as is the 90mm f2. 16-55 works for me too although I don't have a lens filter to fit that lens, the basic conversion (580nm) shows it to work well (whether a lens filter might interfere with the light path to give a hot spot is another thing). I mostly use a Hoya R72 (720nm) on my lenses and sometimes 850nm (B&W). My favourite lenses for infrared are 14mm f2.8 and 55-200mm. I've read that 10-24 is not good. I have read that the f2 Chrons are ok for hotspots and I'm hoping the new 16mm f2.8 will work although I'm happy with the 14mm and cropping if necessary. I don't shoot IR with much else than the 14mm and the 55-200mm.
  9. I think I understand you - and thank you for all the details you provided. When using a non-Fuji lens set shoot without lens to ON. You can leave this set. Also you can leave any non Fuji lens focus length entered. The camera recognises when a Fuji lens is fitted and will override to normal Fuji auto settings. I think that's what you have done - but just to be sure. 😀 I believe you need to clean the lens and camera contacts - use something like a pencil eraser but keep the lens and the camera facing down when you do this. Otherwise it may be an electrical problem elsewhere in the camera. If it is out of warranty you should contact your local Fuji repair center for a quote before repair. They usually have an idea of the cause. Best of luck. Vic
  10. Excellent work David? Wonderful control of colour and contrast with a really theatrical feel.
  11. Hi Melissa, you don't say which camera you use but it seems you may have perhaps set an advanced mode - pano, bracketting, double exposure etc. Check under the ISO dial to make sure it's set to "S" single. If necessary, do a factory reset (user menu) but maybe take a note of what settings you have so you can re-input them. Factory reset puts the camera back in the new camera state.
  12. Which lenses do you use for IR Chris?
  13. http://bjornmoerman.blogspot.com/2019/03/comparison-review-fujifilm-x-t30-mini-x.html
  14. Hi Chris, that seems unusual, yet if it is going to occur it will most likely be during long exposures. However, there is no light path from sensor to viewfinder - the connection is purely electronic signal. If you really feel that unwanted light is entering that way try covering the camera with a layer or two of dark cloth. I've not had a problem with my IR converted XE1 either. Can you post some images showing the problem? Vic
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