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Cardiobikeracer

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  1. Cardiobikeracer

    Fuji XF 90mm f2 "Review"

    Hey veejaycee; That's great to know the 90mm has fast AF and nice bokeh. My 60mm is optically superb, but it's slow AF in dim light is brutal! Looking forward to the 90mm. I recently got the XF 23mm, and while it's optically superb, it's quite a bit chunkier than the petite 18mm (which still remains my favourite street lens) and the Touit 32mm or XF 35mm. Out of curiosity, I measured its diameter and length, and it turned out to be slightly bigger in both those dimensions than my old, Canadian Noctilux!!! In the olden days, that Noctilux M lens was considered to be a big beast, overpowering the relatively small M body. And now, we have the XF 23mm, which is bigger than that Still, weight wise, it's actually not that bad. It's about half the weight of that old Canadian Noctilux!
  2. Cardiobikeracer

    Fuji XF 90mm f2 "Review"

    Hi Jeremy; As the years go by, my choice of multiple lenses for all-around use have gotten further apart in focal length. About 23 years ago, shooting film on Leica M bodies as a documentary photographer and photojournalist, I was comfortable with 35/50/90mm. After a year or so in the field, I found myself skipping the 50mm in favour of sticking with the 35mm as my all-around lens, and using the 90mm when I needed portraits or for compression of city scenes. Especially when using slower slide film, the 35mm wide also gave me a bit more apparent DOF over the 50mm. I added the 24mm when Leica released that, and eventually, started using an old 135mm f2.8 (the one with the goggles for an M camera) to get even more compression and slightly more reach. Some of the great photographers that I really admire, such as HCB and Josef Koudelka, were/are famous for using a very tight spread of three lenses. HCB favoured 35/50/90mm, with most of his images shot with the 50mm. Koudelka liked 28/35/50mm. While I started out with a tight difference, I was never able to really get the subtle and nuanced differences between the 35 and the 50mm focal length. I didn't develop that feel and ability to make the 35mm and 50mm really different for my work, like the way those masters could. It would use either one or the other as my "standard" focal length, but for me personally, it wasn't worth carrying both. If my "normal" lens is the 50mm, I would prefer to use a 28mm/50mm/135mm spread. If I choose the 35mm as the "normal", I'm more comfortable with 21mm/35mm/85-90mm spread (or equivalent). With the faster, cleaner ISO of today's sensors, including Fuji's, I'm back to using the 50mm-e (in my case, the Touit 32mm in X mount), as I can get sufficient DOF when I need it with the higher ISO. Instead of supplementing the 32mm with the XF 23mm, I usually turn to the 18mm (28mm-e) as it's a good complement to the 32mm. There's a distinct difference between the two, yet the 18mm isn't so wide that it becomes difficult to handle (e.g. perspective distortion and strange lines of convergence if I don't get the horizon exactly level). I shoot corporate events as well, and I'm now finding the 60mm (90mm-e) to have insufficient reach in most cases. Plus, it's slow as molasses to AF in dim light. I'm looking forward to getting back to a 135mm-e lens, especially one as fast (aperture-wise) as this upcoming 90mm at f2. I'm also willing to bet it will AF much quicker than my slow 60mm Macro.
  3. Cardiobikeracer

    xpro1 ???

    Gryphon and genghis; The XF 18mm for me, is the best street photography lens of the Fuji lineup. I like it even better than the gorgeous 23mm, because it's smaller and has deeper, apparent DOF at the same f stop. Fantastic for pre-focusing via hyper focal scale. I wrote about using it for street shooting, here - https://eyebeamimages.wordpress.com/2014/11/24/fuji-x-pro1-set-up-for-street-photography-part-i/ While I'm a big fan of the 18mm for street work, if I had to choose a single lens that would include coverage for all around travel, it would still be the Touit 32mm/XF 35mm. Or perhaps the XF 23mm. Both have a bit more versatility than the 18mm. Easier to isolate subjects with shallow DOF, and the 32/35mm can be used for shots closer to people with less perspective distortion than the 18mm. Even though this thread is about a single lens for the XP1 for travel and street use, I've found over the year of owning an X system, that it's light enough to easily carry both the 18mm and the 32mm, for daily use. My previous go-to system was the old Leica M. As small and handy as that rangefinder system is compared to huge pro DLSR's, the Fuji X is at least one-third lighter than the M, when using equivalent primes.
  4. Cardiobikeracer

    Great Photographers to Check Out - Past and Present

    Added Lynsey Addario to the list. Photojournalist/War Photographer Official Website One of my favourite photojournalists who is working today. I love the emotional content of her work.
  5. Cardiobikeracer

    xpro1 ???

    Nobody has mentioned kittens yet. True. I believe HCB was principally known for his use of 50mm lenses, though there is photographic evidence of him using other focal lengths. Yes,HCB used the 50mm more than any other lens. On the TOP blog, I think there was an anecdote about reviewing his contact sheets at the NYC Magnum office and it was evident that the majority of his shots were with the 50mm. HCB did carry other lenses though. In an interview that I believe is available on the NY Times site from the early '70's, he talks about carrying the 35mm and 90mm, in addition to the 50mm. But he felt they had limitations, compared to what he could do with his 50mm. The 35mm showed wide angle distortion, in his opinion (so different from today's visual/cultural taste where shooting with far wider lenses isn't unusual), and he disliked the limited DOF of the 90mm. There is also an interesting video on YouTube, where an architect in Eastern Europe talks of accompanying HCB during a visit in the mid-70's, I think. Again, with the 50mm on an black M body (possibly an M4?), but during this time period, he was also using the tiny Leica/Minolta CL, with the 40mm.
  6. Cardiobikeracer

    The Two Primes

    XF 18mm and Touit 32mm (or the also excellent XF 35mm). Both are fast lenses, at f2 and f1.8, so I can shoot in low light and/or isolate a subject. There's a noticeable FOV difference between the two, with one as the 28mm-e and the other, just slightly shy of a 50mm-e. The 18mm is good for landscapes and architecture. Also my favourite for street photography. The 32mm is also good for street work, portraits and when I want to be more selective in my FOV. Other than the very rare occasion of wanting more compression (i.e. moderate Telephoto like the XF 56 or 60mm), these two lenses cover the overwhelming majority of what I need for my personal work.
  7. Cardiobikeracer

    xpro1 ???

    If I were using film, it would be a 35mm-e. The moderate wide angle has more apparent DOF compared to a 50mm-e with slower film ISO. The Fuji X-Pro1 is remarkably clean and noise-free at high ISO. for me, that makes the Fuji XF 35mm or Zeiss Touit 32mm (50mm-e) more versatile. I can shoot at a high ISO to get a smaller aperture, and therefore more DOF. At the other end: wide open, it can really isolate the subject, more so than the 23mm (35mm-e). Plus, at f1.4 or f1.8, one has a super fast lens for low light situations. Of course, if one prefers a wider field of view, then a 50mm-e is too restrictive. But if I had to use just one prime for the Fuji X, it would be the XF 35mm or Touit 32mm. Both are excellent optically, and versatile for use.
  8. Cardiobikeracer

    Joined the Club!

    Welcome to the forum and the Fuji X system, Vignouse. Similar to veejaycee, I also prefer the X-Pro1 body over the excellent X-T1. My primary reason is the X-Pro1's hybrid OVF/EVF Finder. Being able to shift instantaneously between optical and electronic views depending upon the situation is absolutely brilliant. The other aspect I like about the X-Pro1 is that it's the most solidly built of all the X Bodies. And yes, it's big for a CSC, but still easy as a daily carry. Solid for sure, but still lighter than my old Leica M, and certainly smaller than a typical FF DSLR. While the 10-24mm zoom is the lens I uae the most to earn a living, it's the Fuji and Zeiss XF mount primes that are my personal favorites to use. I hope you like them as well.
  9. I purchased a generic hood from eBay for my XF 23mm lens that I use on X-Pro1 bodies. I wanted a smaller hood than the overly large petal design that FUji provided with the 23mm. The type I got was a copy of a Leica style, vented hood in metal. Cost $7.50 with shipping. So far, no interference with AF illuminator.
  10. Cardiobikeracer

    Fuji XF 10-24 Zoom

    I've owned a 10-24mm since it was available last spring. It's a great lens and I do appreciate the zoom range for professional use. Great optical performance too. I never use it as a walk-around lens though. Much prefer Fuji's lighter and faster primes. Personally, I find it's too bulky and and heavy street photography. When I use it professionally, it's almost always on a tripod (real estate and architecture work). With all of that said: it's still lighter than a comparable Canon or Nikon quality zoom in a similar focal range. The 10-24mm is big in the context of XF lenses, but it's not bad compared to the size and weight of DLSR zooms.
  11. Cardiobikeracer

    What bags or camera bags are you using ?

    Started using Courierware custom messenger type bags. They manufacture a made-to-order photography bag called the Incognito. http://courierbags.com/wp/product/incognito-camera-bag/ I first read about Courierware about 15 years ago on the Nemeng Leica site, and the company itself has been around for over 25 years. Privately owned, all the work is done in Vermont, USA. Reviews over the years talk of quality craftsmanship and durability of product. I like my Fison Harvey Messenger and Billingham Hadley Pro. But I've always wanted want to specify the exact features and size to carry a very specific load. In this case, a small bag that can carry my two X-Pro1 bodies, with an XF 18mm and Touit 32mm mounted, both with hoods in place, so it's ready to shoot. Some small pockets to organize a minimum of accessories, but nothing else. Courierware's Incognito Camera Bag comes in several sizes and I choose the Extra Small. There is a low, base price, and then their standard options add a small charge, or in the case of some options, they are free. I picked various options: shoulder pad, clips to close the flap without Velcro, additional pocket with closure inside, the stock padded insert with two dividers, Maroon front flap. In addition, I asked for two, custom requests that wasn't on their menu - I requested that a back outer pocket be installed without a Velcro closure (no additional charge), and added d-rings (custom charge of $10) so I could use a carry handle from an old Domke bag. I prefer a separate carry handle of that style. The bag was made within a week, and I received it the week after that via post, which is pretty fast as I don't live in the US. Quality is outstanding and the Cordura looks like it will last decades, which fits in line with the reviews of some Courieware owners who've used their bags for nearly 20 years. They got all the details I asked for spot-on. And considering it was a custom bag, the price is very reasonable - about two-thirds the cost of stock Filson + Magnum or Billingham messenger style bag. The best thing about the bag: it's the exact size that I need and has all of the features I want, without compromise. Great purchasing experience, and an even greater end result. Note: I paid full price for the bag as a normal customer, and I have no affiliation with Courierware. Simply thought I would share a positive experience.
  12. Cardiobikeracer

    Using Fuji X gear for Virtual Tours

    Thanks, beetwo77. At first, I was a bit afraid that I would get bogged down with the workflow. But as I got used to 3DVista Virtual Tour suite more and more, I find my processing time is getting shorter. In the last week, I've also started shooting JPEG, as I get a better feel for a good exposure and have gotten much more accurate on my metering. So instead of bracketing, I do a proper exposure for the interior, and if required, another one for the window. So unless I really need to play around with the dynamic range, I've been able to go directly from the camera JPEG and into either Photoshop (to merge the window exposures, which is very fast in that program) or right into 3DVista. For the most part, I can skip Capture One. When work becomes high volume, it's all about finding a lot of small efficiencies, that can add up to a lot of labour and time savings. That difference can mean being profitable, or not.
  13. Cardiobikeracer

    X30 - the right gear for R `n B - Concert

    Great shots (you captured some great expressions and moments of the performers) and nice IQ. Regarding the latter: I got my wife an X30 for Christmas, and I've been surprised at how good the image quality is from such a light, small and handy camera. Really good equipment.
  14. Cardiobikeracer

    difference between X100s 23mm and Xf 18mm

    I mostly concur. The centre is always sharp, but the outer edges (on the "long" sides of the frame) and the corners are weaker, and never truly "come in" even when well stopped down. For architectural type work this is probably not ideal, but for reportage or street work, it's not going to be an issue. The AF is the fastest of the 18/35/60 by some margin. SLR Gear bench test quantifies it's performance. Personally, I think there is an appreciable difference between 28mmm-e and 35mm-e for some types of photo - individuals may favour one focal length, any many used 28mm-e lenses as a classic "street" focal length. It's also much better for taking in views and city streets etc when space is tight. Hey artuk; Yup, the 18mm is great for street photography, but I definitely avoid it for my real estate/architecture stuff. I go to the optically superior XF 10-24mm for the latter. And because I'm always on a tripod, the additional weight and bulk of the 10-24mm is a non-issue. I could never get much a of difference when shooting both 28mm and 35mm (or the XF equivalents of 18 and 23mm), but there are definitely some shooters who can. The Magnum photographer, Josef Koudelka, comes to mind, who used to shoot with a very close spread of lenses - 28mm, 35mm and 50mm.
  15. Cardiobikeracer

    difference between X100s 23mm and Xf 18mm

    I agree with veejaycee - the difference between the 23mm & 18mm as focal lengths is too close. I don't use an X100 series camera, but I do own both the XF 23mm and 18mm lenses. When I go out for general purpose street and city shooting, I never take both. It's one or the other. The 18mm, I always pair with a Touit 32mm (so I end up with 28mm-e and 50mm-e). The 23mm, I take it out by itself or perhaps pair it with a 60mm (so it's 35mm-e and 90mm-e). A 23mm/35mm-e is a wide angle that doesn't look overtly wide. Once you get to 18mm/28mm-e, it's usually obvious one is using a wide angle, but again, it's not an enormous difference in field of view over the 23mm. A better companion to a 23mm, IMHO, would be the XF 14mm. There's a marked difference in focal length between the two, and it's obvious when to use one, versus the other, in architecture or landscape situations. As for the XF 18mm performance - Again, I agree with veejaycee, in that wide open, it's a bit soft, and there's some minor distortion, both optical and from perspective when objects are close by. It's often considered the "worst" optical performer of the original three XF lenses, but I genuinely believe that it's still a very good lens. Especially when I stop it down to f5.6 or f8, it performs very well. As for the focus performance: in my experience, the 18mm is actually the best AF of the original three. It focuses very fast and sure (partly due to the wide angle, partly due to its light mass). It has a very short release to shutter trigger time. It doesn't hunt around for focus nearly as much as the 60mm, and is better than the XF 35mm. On top of that, the XF 18mm is very light and petite, yet it has a genuine f stop ring (unlike the pancake 27mm). So overall, it performs very well, especially for the price. If you want more details, check out my review here - https://eyebeamimages.wordpress.com/2014/12/07/the-under-rated-fuji-xf-18mm-a-great-street-photography-lens/ And a couple shots I did with it, wide open at night during a rain storm, here - https://eyebeamimages.wordpress.com/2014/12/22/fuji-xf-18mm-a-couple-of-night-shots-in-the-rain-fog/ With all of that said: To reiterate, I second veejaycee's comments that it's too close to the 23mm, looking at the focal length alone. So I would go with the XF 14mm instead, to make it worthwhile carrying another wide angle.
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