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About enghell

  • Birthday May 3

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Höganäs, Sweden
  • Interests
    Photography, writing/playing/recording/listening to extreme metal (and rock/americana)

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Camera Gear

  • Camera List
    Fujifilm X-T2, Fujifilm X-T1, Fujifilm X100T
  • Lens List
    Fujinon XF 14mm f/2.8 R, Fujinon XF 16mm f/1.4 R RW, Fujinon XF 23mm f/1.4 R, Fujinon XF 35mm f/1.4 R, Fujinon XF 56mm f/1.2 R, Fujinon XF 90mm f/2 R LM WR, Fujinon XF 50-140mm f/2.8 R LM OIS WR, Fujinon XF 1.4x TC WR, Helios 44m 58mm f/2, Lensbaby Composer Pro, Lensbaby Sweet 35 optics, Lensbaby Edge 80 optics, Lensbaby Zoneplate/Pinhole, Lensbaby Single Glass Optic, Lensbaby Plastic Optic, Lensbaby 1.0

  1. Blowing a bit of life into an old thread. Two things that most camera bags share, is that they are butt ugly and that they look just like what they are, camera bags filled with expensive gear, ready to be stolen. Like most photographers, I have several bags. I mostly prefer backpacks, since I usually haul around a bit of gear while shooting portraits or landscapes. I have both the F-stop Loka for when I need all my stuff, and the F-stop Guru when I need a little bit less. While these are the best backpacks to be found, they're mostly angled towards being used in the outdoors, and they are awesome while hiking and doing landscapes/seascapes and things like that, but they're not always the most practical in the city. And while I don't see either cameras or bags as fashion accessories, I do have the Wotancraft Scout, which easily is the best and coolest looking shoulder bag available. And Wotancraft's bags are handmade and really expensive, but the quality is second to none. While the Scout is awesome for a day in the city doing street photography with my X100T, batteries, memory cards and some other stuff, or my X-T2 without the battery grip, and with two lenses (one attached), it's a bit small since the battery grip actually never leaves the X-T2. So unfortunately I end up hardly ever using this bag. But none of these mentioned bags look like typical camera bags, which I really like. But i needed something bigger. Not to walk around a whole day in the city shooting street photography, but while doing urban styled model/portrait shoots when I walk some, and work some and need something that I can quickly access to swap lenses and things like that. So I bought the Think Tank Retrospective 30. It's pretty big, but I usually have my X-T2 with 16mm f/1.4, 23mm f/1.4, 35mm f/1.4, 56mm f/1.2 and 90mm f/2 with my and I hate when I have to dig through my bag while working, so this seems perfect though I haven't really had the time to do any shoots the last month, so I haven't really tried it out that much yet, but it seems great. And while most Think Tank bags are like most other camera bags, boxy, bulky, ugly and screams "steal me", the Retrospective line does not. Especially not the Pinestone version. I've also recently bought the Think Tank Airport Roller Derby for use when travelling and it'll be nice to try it out next time I'll travel. Sorry for a long kinda meaningless add to this thread.
  2. enghell

    Camera straps - What do you use?

    For my X-T2 and X-T1 I mainly use the Peak Design Cuff (the newest version) or Peak Design Slide Lite. I have some leather hand strap for my X100T, that looks like all other "hand made" leather straps. Might put a Peak Design disc on it instead since that system is the best I've tried.
  3. There's nothing wrong with the X-T1. It's a great camera most of the time and I've been very happy with it and it'll still keep on being a great camera, and I'll use it as a second X body when I've received my X-T2 (hopefully soon). That doesn't mean that there aren't need for improvements like: Autofocus . It has been improved from when I bought the X-T1 about 2 years ago, but it's still not on par with for example the Canon 5D MkIII that I have. And I'm not only talking about speed, but accuracy as well, not only for moving targets but while shooting under tricky lighting conditions with very shallow depth of field where there is very little room for mistakes. But is supposed to be much better on the X-T2 and is of course connected to the new and improved sensor. And while 50% increase in resolution and even better dynamic range than the X-T1 is great, autofocus improvement is the single most important one for me. Performance on high ISO. I avoid using ISO over 1600 since it's not very good. And at 6400 it's totally useless because of weird smearing of details and artefacts through some in camera noise reduction even on RAF files (I've never shot a single jpeg, only shoot RAF). Noise can be dealt with, but weird artefacts and smearing just ends up with shots being useless. Flash Sync. Also better on the X-T2 1/8000 mechanical shutter speed (also on the X-T2), for easier avoiding the rolling shutter effect with moving targets. I don't see locking mechanisms for the shutter speed and ISO dials as a problem like others seems to, so I don't care about those improvements on the X-T2 that much, not the height of them either, not even with gloves on. Two SD-card slots is a good improvement as well, but not a deal breaker. The "joystick" for moving autofocus point is welcomed, I've had that on my DSLRs for the last 12 years or so, os it's a nice feature and will make it faster and easier to move the focus point around. These are improvements, not something that makes the X-T1 less than it is today... 4K video on the other hand just made a stills camera unnecessary expensive.
  4. enghell


  5. This is supposed to be the official date for it to be announced, not for it to be released. I'm mostly curious to see if they have actually fixed the things that needed to be fixed on the X-T1.
  6. enghell

    Erased photos kept reappearing

    Don't just erase the photos, instead always format a card in the camera.
  7. enghell

    Firmware Updates Available

    You put the new firmware on an SD-card. There are instructions on Fuji's download site on how to do it.
  8. enghell

    Forum Banner

    Remember, professional built the Titanic, but amateurs built the Ark! Except that Titanic was real and the ark wasn't.
  9. enghell

    Fuji XF 10-24 Zoom

    I don't have this lens but you can't load a profile yourself for a Fujinon lens, at least not in Lightroom (that's what I use myself), those profiles are already in the EXIF information, so it is taken care of automatically. Besides Fuji I use Canon with a EF 17-40mm f/4L (among other lenses). At 17mm on my full frame Canon 5D MkIII, there's distortion, so with a lens that is that wide it's nothing weird.
  10. enghell

    Kit bag for an XT1 plus three lenses

    I have a "Crumpler Mild Enthusiast (Large)" for my X-T1 w/ 14mm, 35mm and 56mm, which is great and has served me well, but bought "F-stop Millar Series Brooklyn Sling" for my Fuji setup, since a shoulderbag is never ultimate for walking around for hours and hours. I've had the "F-stop Loka" backpack for a quite while (for my full frame gear in the outdoors) and I've had other brands before, both backpacks and shoulderbags, and I can easily say that F-stop makes THE best camera bags, end of discussion. http://fstopgear.com/news/2014-09/new-millar-series-preview-program#.VIKdv8ma_J4
  11. enghell

    Shooting Raw?

    I've been shooting exlusively in RAW for about 10 years. Earlier Canon and lately since I bought an X-T1, both Canon and Fujifilm.
  12. Thank you duns. I've mostly used the 35mm on the X-T1. Have only been a Fuji user for a couple of months and I've had the 35mm lens the longest. And I have only of lately done more street photography since it's harder to walk around unnoticed with a huge DSLR which was the main reason for buying another camera. And yeah, Copenhagen is a nice city and I live only 2 hours away from it here in Sweden, so I go there quite often. Well, the lens hood is always on when I use the 35mm, but the rubber cap that goes on top of that metal hood is pretty bad, but still works. On the other lenses I put the hood on backwards while in my bag and the cap on, then shift it around while using them. I always use the hoods, it's both a good protection for the front element and minimizes glare, so for best image quality, it's a no-brainer for me.
  13. You're welcome duns. Well, the 23mm is obviously wider and it will give you the oportunity to add a bit more to a scene and will most certeinly work great for street and environmental portraiture. For more close up portraits the 56mm would be the one to go for, since it will separate your "model" from the background better and have less distortion. Like I said before, the 56mm will work great for street photography too, it's just a matter of shooting style. I haven't got the 23mm myself, though I have the 14mm, 35mm and 56mm. The 14mm I don't really use for street stuff since it's too wide, but works great for cityscapes and architecture. 35mm is the one I use mostly for street photography together with the 56mm, but sure, some times the 23mm would be nice to have too and I might add it to my line-up of lenses. But to put it simply, I can't tell you wich lens will be the best for you, I can only tell you what works for me. In the end though, the 23mm would probably be a little bit more alround. Oh and when I was just about to hit "post comment", you added the 35mm too. And that changes everything. The 35mm would be the most alround of them all (and the cheapest one). With that one it's wide enough for street and evironmental portraits, and it will be better for more close up portraits, since less distortion than the 23mm. So if I had to chose only one of those three lenses, 35mm for sure.
  14. Nice comment about your lenses, Petrus. Myself I wouldn't say that the 35mm is too narrow and that a longer one is not a street photography lens. That is to restrict oneself just because the norm says the 23mm (35mm equivalent for full frame) is the classic focal length used at an aperture of f/8-f/11. The 35mm is great for street photography and so is the 56mm, it all depends on shooting style (I'd say that both the 14mm and 18mm are too wide). While doing street photography, many times I like to isolate my "targets" with a short DOF since I find that much more interesting than the regular wider one with a long DOF, so it all depends on shooting style.
  15. I bought the Crumpler Singapore Slick camera strap for my X-T1 from their European web store.