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Found 13 results

  1. Hi guys, My Fuji X-T10 can't seem to properly turn off when I switch the button to off. Display turns off, but there's a constant clicking noise. It stops when I remove the lens, but continues to have that noise when reinserted (while 'off'). The only way to stop the noise is to remove the battery. Can someone help out? Other Notes: Functions properly when turned on. Thanks!
  2. Holter


    Fuji xt10 #xt10 #xf27
  3. Hi all. I signed up to share my hack (and fix) for the flimsy (bulging) door covering the HDMI/USB/Mic connectors on Fujifilm X-T1. It's a hack so be prepared to cut the rubbery plastic. Look at picture #2 to see where to cut the plastic, 1mm should be enough. It's quite easy really. Pictures follow. Take couple of 1mm paper clips and straighten them up. These will be carefully bent again and placed inside the door as in the picture. Glue it with a superglue (or some other glue) making sure there's no excess glue popping up. Then, close the flimsy door and hold it against something to cause the glue to harden. Then leave this for few hours (over the night is best). This works very well for me, and the door is back again to be straight like new. On the outside, obviously, there's nothing apparent. Hope this helps out someone out there. -- Noor Dawod A photographer from Oslo, Norway. http://noor.dawod.photography
  4. Transiting to Fuji XT10 from Nikon , I am trying to use Nikon 60mm f2.8 D AF Micro Nikkor with an adapter, but have issues focusing. Even in a non-macro situation (portraits), even with aperture stopped down to, say 5.6 or 8 shots come out downright bad. My only guidance is peaking outline on the screen and I am wondering how reliable it is. Also, I am not totally sure 60mm is the figure I need to put into the non-native lens section of the camera setup. Is this automatically corrected for the adapter connecting the lens to the camera or is there another formula? I also see there're a few more parameters to input manually, but am not sure they can influence sharpness. Is there anything I am missing?
  5. Great to be a part of the Fuji X Series community! I shoot with the X-T10 and have been having problems actively monitoring aperture changes (which I am executing manually) while in Shutter or Aperture Priority Modes. It only seems to work in the full Manual Mode. Any thoughts or tips on this? Thanks in advance for any help!
  6. As most of us already know, the Fuji image files look awesome. To be fair, image files from any camera these days will look really good, but there's something really special about the way the Fujifilm X Series cameras portray color and tone. While the Fuji image processors play a part in this, much of the Fuji mojo is due to the X-Trans sensor. With its proprietary non-Bayer pattern design, the X-Trans sensor reproduces color in a unique way that's different from the way it's done in just about every other digital camera. In my search to figure out what's really going on here, it occurred to me, (and was verified by a few of the Fuji reps and engineers), that the X-Trans sensor is actually very "film-like." It's much more so than most other sensors, and this is no accident. In designing the X-Trans sensor, the Fuji engineers looked back as much as they looked forward. Trying to preserve the heritage and legacy of traditional photography, they designed the "random" array on the X-Tran sensor so that it resembles the randomness of film. As we know, film was essentially silver halide glitter that was poured into a bowl of jelly and smeared onto a plastic base. There was nothing "regular" about the way grain looked in film, and although the X-Trans sensor isn't totally random, it does closely match the look of actual film grain, especially when it comes to the distribution of the green sensitive pixels. Compare that with an actually cross section of Autochrome Lumiere film from the early 1900s. It's amazing how close the pattern looks to the X-Trans sensor pattern. Also, compare the two image below, one is a scan from a Velvia slide, and the other is JPEG file from the X-T2. You can see an expanded version of this topic on my blog, along with more image examples. I've even got a side by side comparison of the grain in ACROS next to the old T-MAX 3200 film. I'm fascinated by this idea, let me know your thoughts! Below: An enlargement of the grain on an original Fujifilm Velvia slide film image. Below: An enlargement of an X-T2 JPEG file.
  7. Hi guys, I've recently got myself a X-T10 and i'm looking for some third party lenses to play around with. I've been looking at Russian (USSR) ones like Helios, Jupiter Industar. I would like to get 35mm, 50mm, 85mm and 135mm lens. Any recommendations welcome.
  8. Holter


    Fuji xt10 #xt10 #xf27
  9. SnapPuppy

    Sail Away

    So went to Crosby Beach to get an image of the Iron Men at sunset, couldn't get a composition I was happy with so grabbed this quick pictures as a Ferry was leaving Liverpool. The panoramic crop works better.

    © All Rights Reserved

  10. Paul Clift


    XT-10 XF35MM F1.4R
  11. I was very surprised by just how much manual input there was - which might explain the pricing of these great cameras. Apologies if you have seen it, I didn't see it referenced in the forum previously X-T10 Manufacturing Video
  12. Shmoigel

    Sunset over the Atlantic

    © Nuriakhmetov R.

  13. My favorite photo of this spot I've visited many times. This is the widest I've ever been able to get from the lookout because of my new 16mm prime. Created with LR Photo Merge panorama tool which works amazingly well, but takes a long time to process into your ultra-wide DNG file. It's way more useful than Fuji's built-in panorama tool with it's sweeping requirement and constant error-failures. I had my camera on a flat part of the wall and rotated it between shots, LR aligned the photos well. Used local adjustments on the sky and foreground plants to balance the lighting which was too bright in the sky and too dark on the trees. Also did some WB adjustments to correct the true orange cast of the city and make it more neutral/white to bring out the colored signs and buildings. It was hard to get it down below 1.5mb for upload so the resolution doesn't really do it justice if you zoom in. The resolution of the merged panoramas in LR is huge and they are still in RAW format, so it's also a good way to break out of the 16mp limit of Fuji cameras. Advice appreciated if you have ideas

    © CC-BY-NC (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/3.0/) Jeremy Clarke

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